Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Bolted by Mickey Hazelwood FA: Scott Jones
Page Views: 398 total · 5/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Nov 15, 2011
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Fun long route with an overhanging juggy crux down low (feels a bit committing getting to the second bolt) and a steep, pocketed 5.10 headwall to finish. Both sections are very enjoyable. The middle section is easier, and a little bit loose and runout so it subtracts a star. A 50 meter rope might not be long enough for this route.

You could start on Excrement Adventure and move left above the Brangus crux to create a long, fun 5.10 route. Conversely, move right after the Brangus crux to create a more sustained version of Excrement.

Location

Just left of Excrement Adventure and Blood, Sweat, and Steers, this starts up an overhang to a long face just right of an arete. The next routes further left are Reddi-Whip and Fingerbang.

Protection

7 bolts, two bolt anchor. The anchor bolts are far apart and slings would be helpful to equalize them rather than the common 2-draw set-up.

Supposedly a cam can be placed in between bolts 2 and 3, but I did not have one, and the rock is poor in this section. The climbing is easy, although clipping bolt #3 is awkward, and if you blew it (or a hold broke!) you'd go 40 feet to the ground-assuming you didn't place a piece or it didn't hold.

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