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Routes in Jungle Gym Area

Alchemy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Alchemy Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alchemy Right T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left of Spire T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Little Arete T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Riding Rough on Helen Reddy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Spider Monkey S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spire, The T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stemin' Monkey T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Unruly Macaque S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Well-disciplined Monkey S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Mickey Hazelwood
Page Views: 852 total, 9/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Oct 28, 2009
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

This is a great, pumpy pitch which climbs a severely overhanging wall, then continues up a steep face with small pockets. It shares the first 3 bolts with Well-disciplined Monkey, and then continues on the right bolt line above the overhang (Well-disciplined Monkey goes left, which is apparently a bit easier). The technical crux is probably getting to the first bolt (recommend clip stick), or turning the lip of the overhang (here there is an inobvious solution which mitigates the difficulty somewhat), but the whole thing is pumpy. The upper face stays challenging and does not have great rests. Formerly one had to traverse to the anchors on Well-disciplined Monkey, but now the better option is to continue straight up and merge with the new route to the right (Spider Monkey), eventually reaching anchors after 70-80 feet.

Location

This is the right of two routes that share the first 3 bolts on the "30 foot overhanging wall" noted in the area description. The left branch is Well-disciplined Monkey. See photo of Well-disciplined Monkey on the main Jungle Gym Area page.

Just to the right is the new route Spider Monkey, which merges with Unruly Macaque up high.

Protection

Fully bolted; clip-stick would be nice.

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