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Areas in Surgery Buttress

Jitterbug Wall 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Main Wall 0 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
Sex Cave 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Elevation: 6,957 ft
GPS: 39.624, -107.134 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 6,141 total · 53/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Dec 7, 2008
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Description [Suggest Change]

This is a decent limestone crag that features mostly shorter routes on vertical rock. It gets excellent winter sun (noon until sunset).

Getting There [Suggest Change]

Park at the Bair Ranch rest stop (exit 129) just east of Glenwood Springs. Cross under the highway to the north side and locate an obvious concrete water culvert. Walk around a barbed wire fence via the left edge of the culvert, then head up along the left side of the drainage and over a second barbed wire fence. From here follow a good climbers' trail up to the right end of the cliffs, and traverse west (left) along a catwalk-like ledge system all the way to the SW end of the cliffs. Just before rounding the corner is a cave with two steep routes, and once around the corner most of the routes are found.

Approach time: 10-20 minutes.


[Suggest Change]
Per Michael Schneiter: Routes, listed R->L, or as approached:

A. Smooth Operator, 5.10d, 1p, 60', bolts.
B. Special Gift for Girls, 5.12a, 1p, 45', bolts.
C. Surgery Buttress, 5.10b, 1p, 80', bolts.
D1. Pre Op, 5.10d, 1p, 80', bolts.
D2. Connective Tissue, 5.10d, 1p, 60', bolts.
E. The Knife, 5.12a, 1p, 60', bolts.
F. Post Op, 5.11d, 1p, 60', bolts.
G. Rehab, 5.12a, 1p, 60', bolts.
H. Smells Like Victory, 5.11c, 1p, 60', bolts.
I. Smells Like Pussy, 5.10d, 1p, 50', bolts.
J. Pussy Pie, 5.11a, 1p, 50', bolts.
K. Bitchy Bitch, 5.11c/12a, 1p, 40', bolts.
L. Angel Baby, 5.11b, 1p, 50', bolts.
M. Smirkin' Smith, 5.9+, 1p, 45', bolts.
N. Slippin' Sloan, 5.9, 1p, 80', bolts.

16 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Surgery Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slippin' Sloan
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pre Op
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Slippin' Sloan Main Wall
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Pre Op Main Wall
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
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Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
The Surgery Buttress is one of my favorite crags in Glenwood Canyon. Easy access and great rock with fun routes. Afternoon sun or morning shade, depending on what you're looking for. Dries out quick.
Routes, listed R->L, or as approached:
Smooth Operator, 5.10d
Special Gift for Girls, 5.12a
Surgery Buttress, 5.10b
Pre Op, 5.10d
Connective Tissue, 5.10d
The Knife, 5.12a
Post Op, 5.11d
Rehab, 5.12a
Smells Like Victory, 5.11c
Smells Like Pussy, 5.10d
Pussy Pie, 5.11a
Bitchy Bitch, 5.11c/12a
Angel Baby, 5.11b
Smirkin' Smith, 5.9+
Slippin' Sloan, 5.9 Apr 29, 2009
coop Best
Glenwood Springs, CO
coop Best   Glenwood Springs, CO
What is the approach time? Aug 16, 2010
BJ Sbarra
Carbondale, CO
BJ Sbarra   Carbondale, CO
10-20 minutes. The trail is steep for a bit, but it's not as big of a hike as The Narrows or Skillet. Aug 16, 2010
The exposed, loose, narrow ledge traverse approach to this crag is downright dangerous. Perhaps coming up the draw to the west of the crag and coming in from the left end would be better. May 14, 2012
Jordan Winters
Minturn, CO
Jordan Winters   Minturn, CO
This cliff is definitely exfoliating - be careful what you yard on. Mar 30, 2014

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