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Elevation: 6,957 ft
GPS: 39.62375, -107.13401
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 18,898 total · 101/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Dec 7, 2008
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

Description Suggest change

This is a decent limestone crag that features mostly shorter routes on vertical rock. It gets excellent winter sun (noon until sunset).

Getting There Suggest change

Park at the Bair Ranch rest stop (exit 129) just east of Glenwood Springs. Cross under the highway to the north side and locate an obvious concrete water culvert. Walk around a barbed wire fence via the left edge of the culvert, then head up along the left side of the drainage and over a second barbed wire fence. From here follow a good climbers' trail up to the right end of the cliffs, and traverse west (left) along a catwalk-like ledge system all the way to the SW end of the cliffs. Just before rounding the corner is a cave with two steep routes, and once around the corner most of the routes are found.

Approach time: 10-20 minutes.

L->R:

Suggest change
Per Michael Schneiter: Routes, listed R->L, or as approached:

A. Smooth Operator, 5.10d, 1p, 60', bolts.
B. Special Gift for Girls, 5.12a, 1p, 45', bolts.
C. Surgery Buttress, 5.10b, 1p, 80', bolts.
D1. Pre Op, 5.10d, 1p, 80', bolts.
D2. Connective Tissue, 5.10d, 1p, 60', bolts.
E. The Knife, 5.12a, 1p, 60', bolts.
F. Post Op, 5.11d, 1p, 60', bolts.
G. Rehab, 5.12a, 1p, 60', bolts.
H. Smells Like Victory, 5.11c, 1p, 60', bolts.
I. Smells Like Pussy, 5.10d, 1p, 50', bolts.
J. Pussy Pie, 5.11a, 1p, 50', bolts.
K. Bitchy Bitch, 5.11c/12a, 1p, 40', bolts.
L. Angel Baby, 5.11b, 1p, 50', bolts.
M. Smirkin' Smith, 5.9+, 1p, 45', bolts.
N. Slippin' Sloan, 5.9, 1p, 80', bolts.

16 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Surgery Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 25
Slippin' Sloan
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 20
Smirkin' Smith
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 10
Surgery Buttress
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 21
Pre Op
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 5
Connective Tissue
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 6
Smooth Operator
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 11
Pussy Pie
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 6
Angel Baby
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 4
Smells Like Victory
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 6
Post Op
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 6
The Knife
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 7
Special Gift For Girls
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Slippin' Sloan Main Wall
 25
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Smirkin' Smith Main Wall
 20
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Surgery Buttress Main Wall
 10
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Pre Op Main Wall
 21
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Connective Tissue Main Wall
 5
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Smooth Operator Sex Cave
 6
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Pussy Pie Main Wall
 11
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Angel Baby Main Wall
 6
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Smells Like Victory Main Wall
 4
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Post Op Main Wall
 6
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
The Knife Main Wall
 6
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Special Gift For Girls Sex Cave
 7
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Surgery Buttress »

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