Elevation: 6,957 ft
GPS: 39.624, -107.134 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 10,920 total · 79/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Dec 7, 2008
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

This is a decent limestone crag that features mostly shorter routes on vertical rock. It gets excellent winter sun (noon until sunset).

Getting There

Park at the Bair Ranch rest stop (exit 129) just east of Glenwood Springs. Cross under the highway to the north side and locate an obvious concrete water culvert. Walk around a barbed wire fence via the left edge of the culvert, then head up along the left side of the drainage and over a second barbed wire fence. From here follow a good climbers' trail up to the right end of the cliffs, and traverse west (left) along a catwalk-like ledge system all the way to the SW end of the cliffs. Just before rounding the corner is a cave with two steep routes, and once around the corner most of the routes are found.

Approach time: 10-20 minutes.

L->R:

Per Michael Schneiter: Routes, listed R->L, or as approached:

A. Smooth Operator, 5.10d, 1p, 60', bolts.
B. Special Gift for Girls, 5.12a, 1p, 45', bolts.
C. Surgery Buttress, 5.10b, 1p, 80', bolts.
D1. Pre Op, 5.10d, 1p, 80', bolts.
D2. Connective Tissue, 5.10d, 1p, 60', bolts.
E. The Knife, 5.12a, 1p, 60', bolts.
F. Post Op, 5.11d, 1p, 60', bolts.
G. Rehab, 5.12a, 1p, 60', bolts.
H. Smells Like Victory, 5.11c, 1p, 60', bolts.
I. Smells Like Pussy, 5.10d, 1p, 50', bolts.
J. Pussy Pie, 5.11a, 1p, 50', bolts.
K. Bitchy Bitch, 5.11c/12a, 1p, 40', bolts.
L. Angel Baby, 5.11b, 1p, 50', bolts.
M. Smirkin' Smith, 5.9+, 1p, 45', bolts.
N. Slippin' Sloan, 5.9, 1p, 80', bolts.

16 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Surgery Buttress Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Surgery Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 20
Slippin' Sloan
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 17
Pre Op
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Slippin' Sloan Main Wall
 20
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Pre Op Main Wall
 17
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Surgery Buttress »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos