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Routes in Main Wall

Angel Baby S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bitchy Bitch S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Connective Tissue S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Knife, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Post Op S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pre Op S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pussy Pie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rehab S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Slippin' Sloan S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Smells Like Pussy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Smells Like Victory S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Smirkin' Smith S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Surgery Buttress S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Tracy Martin & Jeff Achey - 2003
Page Views: 1,132 total, 10/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Dec 7, 2008
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is the second route you come to around the corner; it takes a vague line right of a right-facing corner.

Protection

10 bolts or so.

Photos

Rich Kelly
Boulder
  5.10
Rich Kelly   Boulder
  5.10
I think only 7 bolts now and I found cruxes at 3rd bolt and at last bolt. Very fun with two distinctive climbing sections: steep jugs and then balancy stemming. Mar 27, 2015
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
This route now has its own anchor, after many requests, below the usually dirty ledges at the top. The new anchor is at the last bolt of the climb because the rock above was quite hollow and I didn't feel comfortable placing it anywhere above that last bolt. If you still want to get those last few moves of climbing you can top out the climb the original way and the glue-in pins are still there. Bring some links/chain. Jul 18, 2011
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Great route, excellent stone. The crux comes right away with some potentially reachy moves, followed by good, sustained and thoughtful climbing in the open-book corner feature.

This is the second route from the right that you come to on the main part of the wall. Apr 25, 2009
Lynn S
  5.10b
Lynn S  
  5.10b
Fun route the entire way. 10d seems a bit overrated, nothing felt anywhere near that grade. There were a couple of reachy moves that if you were shorter, it would certainly force you to use smaller holds. Apr 20, 2009