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Routes in Main Wall

Angel Baby S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bitchy Bitch S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Connective Tissue S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Knife, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Post Op S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pre Op S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pussy Pie S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rehab S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Slippin' Sloan S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Smells Like Pussy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Smells Like Victory S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Smirkin' Smith S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Surgery Buttress S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shared By: Michael Schneiter on Dec 17, 2014
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Description

The Main Wall is a decent limestone crag that features mostly shorter routes on vertical rock with grades from 5.9 to 5.12a. The limestone here is some of the best you'll find in Glenwood Canyon. It gets excellent winter sun (noon until sunset).

Getting There

Park at the Bair Ranch rest stop (exit 129) just east of Glenwood Springs. Cross under the highway to the north side and locate an obvious concrete water culvert. Walk around a barbed wire fence via the left edge of the culvert, then head up along the left side of the drainage and over a second barbed wire fence.

From here follow a good climbers' trail up to the right end of the cliffs, and traverse west (left) along a catwalk-like ledge system all the way to the SW end of the cliffs. After rounding the southwest corner of the formation and passing the Sex Cave you'll see the Main Wall of the Surgery Buttress. A short scramble underneath the right side of the wall leads to a good belay ledge below the routes.

Approach time: 10-20 minutes.

13 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Main Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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