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GPS: 39.62375, -107.13401
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Shared By: Michael Schneiter on Dec 17, 2014
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
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Description Suggest change

The Main Wall is a decent limestone crag that features mostly shorter routes on vertical rock with grades from 5.9 to 5.12a. The limestone here is some of the best you'll find in Glenwood Canyon. It gets excellent winter sun (noon until sunset).

Getting There Suggest change

Park at the Bair Ranch rest stop (exit 129) just east of Glenwood Springs. Cross under the highway to the north side and locate an obvious concrete water culvert. Walk around a barbed wire fence via the left edge of the culvert, then head up along the left side of the drainage and over a second barbed wire fence.

From here follow a good climbers' trail up to the right end of the cliffs, and traverse west (left) along a catwalk-like ledge system all the way to the SW end of the cliffs. After rounding the southwest corner of the formation and passing the Sex Cave you'll see the Main Wall of the Surgery Buttress. A short scramble underneath the right side of the wall leads to a good belay ledge below the routes.

Approach time: 10-20 minutes.

13 Total Climbs

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Location: Main Wall Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Main Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 25
● Slippin' Sloan
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 20
● Smirkin' Smith
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 10
● Surgery Buttress
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 21
● Pre Op
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 5
● Connective Tissue
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 11
● Pussy Pie
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 6
● Angel Baby
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 4
● Smells Like Victory
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 6
● Post Op
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 6
● The Knife
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Slippin' Sloan
 25
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
● Smirkin' Smith
 20
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● Surgery Buttress
 10
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
● Pre Op
 21
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● Connective Tissue
 5
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
● Pussy Pie
 11
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Angel Baby
 6
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
● Smells Like Victory
 4
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
● Post Op
 6
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
● The Knife
 6
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Main Wall »

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Bryce halfway up the obtuse corner.
Bryce halfway up the obtuse corner.
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