GPS: 39.624, -107.134 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 4,989 total · 77/month
Shared By: Michael Schneiter on Dec 17, 2014
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

The Main Wall is a decent limestone crag that features mostly shorter routes on vertical rock with grades from 5.9 to 5.12a. The limestone here is some of the best you'll find in Glenwood Canyon. It gets excellent winter sun (noon until sunset).

Getting There

Park at the Bair Ranch rest stop (exit 129) just east of Glenwood Springs. Cross under the highway to the north side and locate an obvious concrete water culvert. Walk around a barbed wire fence via the left edge of the culvert, then head up along the left side of the drainage and over a second barbed wire fence.

From here follow a good climbers' trail up to the right end of the cliffs, and traverse west (left) along a catwalk-like ledge system all the way to the SW end of the cliffs. After rounding the southwest corner of the formation and passing the Sex Cave you'll see the Main Wall of the Surgery Buttress. A short scramble underneath the right side of the wall leads to a good belay ledge below the routes.

Approach time: 10-20 minutes.

13 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Main Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 21
Slippin' Sloan
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 18
Pre Op
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Rehab
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Slippin' Sloan
 21
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Pre Op
 18
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Rehab
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Main Wall »

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