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Surgery Buttress
Colorado
> Glenwood Springs
> Glenwood Canyon
Description
This is a decent limestone crag that features mostly shorter routes on vertical rock. It gets excellent winter sun (noon until sunset).
Getting There
Park at the Bair Ranch rest stop (exit 129) just east of Glenwood Springs. Cross under the highway to the north side and locate an obvious concrete water culvert. Walk around a barbed wire fence via the left edge of the culvert, then head up along the left side of the drainage and over a second barbed wire fence. From here follow a good climbers' trail up to the right end of the cliffs, and traverse west (left) along a catwalk-like ledge system all the way to the SW end of the cliffs. Just before rounding the corner is a cave with two steep routes, and once around the corner most of the routes are found.
[Hide Photo] A view from the bottom of the approach.
[Hide Photo] Approach trail is loose and exposed at spots, so care is needed. Took 20 minutes to get down, and I assume it took us 20-30 to get up it. No way is it a 10 minute approach!
[Hide Photo] The Surgery Buttress in Glenwood Canyon.
[Hide Photo] After turning the corner from where the climbs are, good view of the Bair Ranch rest area and Colorado River. The climbing area is not visible from the rest area but around the corner from what you…
[Hide Photo] Hiking back to the car, the first 2 routes are just to the left of me.
[Hide Comment] The Surgery Buttress is one of my favorite crags in Glenwood Canyon. Easy access and great rock with fun routes. Afternoon sun or morning shade, depending on what you're looking for. Dries out quick. Routes, listed R->L, or as approached: Smooth Operator, 5.10d Special Gift for Girls, 5.12a Surgery Buttress, 5.10b Pre Op, 5.10d Connective Tissue, 5.10d The Knife, 5.12a Post Op, 5.11d Rehab, 5.12a Smells Like Victory, 5.11c Smells Like Pussy, 5.10d Pussy Pie, 5.11a Bitchy Bitch, 5.11c/12a Angel Baby, 5.11b Smirkin' Smith, 5.9+ Slippin' Sloan, 5.9
Apr 29, 2009
[Hide Comment] The exposed, loose, narrow ledge traverse approach to this crag is downright dangerous. Perhaps coming up the draw to the west of the crag and coming in from the left end would be better.
May 14, 2012
[Hide Comment] I agree with Tzilla. The traverse approach is dangerous and shouldn't be taken lightly. Excellent advanced climbers have been known to fall to their deaths on "easy" approaches. One could easily trip on their shoelace and fall off the cliff.
Jul 16, 2020
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Glenwood Springs, CO
Routes, listed R->L, or as approached:
Smooth Operator, 5.10d
Special Gift for Girls, 5.12a
Surgery Buttress, 5.10b
Pre Op, 5.10d
Connective Tissue, 5.10d
The Knife, 5.12a
Post Op, 5.11d
Rehab, 5.12a
Smells Like Victory, 5.11c
Smells Like Pussy, 5.10d
Pussy Pie, 5.11a
Bitchy Bitch, 5.11c/12a
Angel Baby, 5.11b
Smirkin' Smith, 5.9+
Slippin' Sloan, 5.9 Apr 29, 2009
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