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Routes in Cave Wall

Bitter Table for One S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Broken Dreams S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Divorce Therapy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eman saves Tman S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hornass Nest S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lords of Karma S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Manly Woman S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Matterhorness S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Meat Gazer S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pali Gap S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pissed off Mofo S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shadows of the Mind S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
T and T S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Your Flesh is Weak S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Elevation: 7,365 ft
GPS: 32.4, -110.715 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 8,417 total, 74/month
Shared By: Antoine Horness on Aug 10, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

Description

This area has 15 sport routes that are mostly moderates from 5.6 to 5.10. The wall has pumpier climbs ranging from 5.6 to 5.10 with morning sun and shade after 2pm. Most of the climbs have a ledge half way up. The area was found by Tony Lusk and Tony Horness on a day where Tony H's tips were too sore to climb. Andy Tretiakoff helped develop the area as well.

The area has a cave on the south end of the Cave Wall that can provide shelter from sun and rain and has a sign in register with laminated route guide. The view from the top of the crag encompasses the valley below Mt. Bigelow with Barnum Rock and Ridgeline due west while looking south to Rose Canyon and Munchkinland.
UPDATE 09/23/11* Warning: Bolt and/or hangers missing. Bolts and/or rock on the far right hand side of this wall may be of questionable integrity. Bolts reportedly pulled on Pali Gap and adjacent routes. Check back for further updates from the FA. Details

Getting There

Take Mt. Lemmon highway to Organization Ridge rd at milepost 20. Turn south and park at Palisades trailhead parking, walk 50' south to drainage on east side, go uphill on a contour line to large black stump, follow cairns east then south to top of Cave Wall - 15-20 minutes. Access Cave Wall from north side and the other walls from south end marked with cairns.

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Cave Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shadows of the Mind
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pissed off Mofo
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hornass Nest
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Matterhorness
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Shadows of the Mind 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Pissed off Mofo 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Hornass Nest 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Matterhorness 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Cave Wall »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Kyle O
Tucson, AZ
Kyle O   Tucson, AZ
Looked like the anchors are still missing on the top of Lords of Karma and Pali Gap as of yesterday (10/6/13) Oct 7, 2013
Antoine Horness
Tucson, AZ
Antoine Horness   Tucson, AZ
The anchors and hangers have been pulled from Lords of Karma and Pali Gap due to a report from a climber of loose bolts. Yesterday, I checked all of the anchors, hangers and bolts by shock loading them with a Grigri backup and could find no loose bolts. Some of the hangers and one of the anchors needed routine tightening. I don't think there is anything wrong but shut down the routes and pulled the anchors and hangers Sep 25, 2011
Antoine Horness
Tucson, AZ
Antoine Horness   Tucson, AZ
I just got a call that there are some loose bolts on Pali Gap and Lords of Karma. DO NOT CLIMB ON THESE 2 ROUTES UNTIL I GET THIS FIXED.

I am going to go to the routes tomorrow and will assess what needs to be done. I will probably pull all of the hangers off tomorrow. Sep 23, 2011
AmyH  
Beware the chains on Lords of Karma are missing, but it's easy enough to borrow from Pali Gap (routes 1 & 2), although the bolt on the right anchor was loose and needs tightening. May 30, 2011
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
a fun spot for sure and a great place for moderates, which are seriously lacking on the mountain right now.

i do want to say though that i felt the grades were slightly inflated. please, let's try to keep grade creep under control so mount lemmon doesn't end up like red rock or queen creek.

also, although there are lots of bolts on each route and they are for the most part very safe, some of the bolts seem hard to clip so be sure you're very solid at the grade before getting on any of these climbs.

forgive me for the criticisms--i do actually think this crag is a fun and much-needed addition to the mountain. i'll almost certainly return this season. Jun 7, 2010
Mike Senigo
Tucson, AZ
Mike Senigo   Tucson, AZ
Tony and son, thanks for fixing the trail, looks great! On another note, there are no chains on the top of Manly Woman and Eman/Tman, just two bolts. Make sure to look up when looking for them. May 6, 2009
Antoine Horness
Tucson, AZ
Antoine Horness   Tucson, AZ
Tony Lusk and his son fixed the trail to the area last weekend. The gate was open as well and a few of us had a great climbing day last Saturday. Apr 20, 2009
tbrain  
Had our vehicle locked-in on the road leading to the approach (presumably by the forest service) 28 Mar 09. Sign on the locked gate clearly indicated it was to remain open after March 1. Anyone else had any problems for access to The Druid or The Outcroppings? Mar 31, 2009
Climbed here yesterday in Tee shirts. They are doing a bunch of logging so you will not find the stump. If you just head left from the palisades trail head and skirt around the right side of the knoll and continue east you should eventually find some cairns as you work your way through the Boyscout camp.

Jimbo and I did all the climbs except the project and the last two 5.6 routes. It was a fun if not hard on the feet kind of day. We thought that all of the routes were worth doing if you were there and that Matterhorness was the best of the crag and should not be missed. I would give all of them one star and with Materhorness getting two. I would almost give it three but I don't think it quite compares with some of the other 3 star routes on the mountain but it is close.

Nice area. Two thumbs up to the folks that worked so hard on it. Feb 24, 2009
Antoine Horness
Tucson, AZ
Antoine Horness   Tucson, AZ
Dave Weeks did the route on TR with no falls and no hangs 6 months ago. If you want to bolt it and lead it for the FA be my guest and come up with a name. I agree with you on your analysis of the route and the crux is definitely getting off the ledge. I hope you enjoyed the area and it was a blast to put up. Sep 6, 2008
If the open project on the Cave wall hasn't been sent, I got the FA on 9/3/08. Didn't think it was that bad, around 5.10/5.11 with one 10 foot section that maybe 5.12 after the ledge. If anyone knows if this has been sent or not let me know and if it hasn't, I'll think of a name for it. Sep 5, 2008
JayCap  
Don't turn up the first drainage and start looking for black stumps - there are dozens of them. It's about 65 paces (not 50') south from the parking area to the trail. It's marked with a cairn, and the black stump is visible up the hill, also with a cairn clearly visible on top. The trail is abundantly marked all the way to the crag. Sep 1, 2008
Jimbo  
Just went out and did a dozen or so routes on the three formations. I must say the climbing was fun, the routes were varied and I feel this area is a great addition to the Tucson climbing scene.
Kudos to Tony and the crew for taking the time, and spending the money to add a bunch of great new routes for moderate sport climbers.
This is the place to go if you want introduce your neophyte friends and family to climbing.
I intend to do just that in the near future.
Also has a very pleasant hike in. Aug 23, 2008

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