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Routes in Cave Wall

Bitter Table for One S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Broken Dreams S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Divorce Therapy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eman saves Tman S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hornass Nest S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lords of Karma S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Manly Woman S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Matterhorness S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Meat Gazer S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pali Gap S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pissed off Mofo S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shadows of the Mind S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
T and T S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Your Flesh is Weak S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: 2008 Tony Lusk, Tony Horness, Andy Tretiakoff, Dave Weeks
Page Views: 871 total, 8/month
Shared By: Antoine Horness on Aug 10, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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UPDATE 09/23/11* Warning: Bolt and/or hangers missing. Bolts and/or rock on the far right hand side of this wall may be of questionable integrity. Bolts reportedly pulled on Pali Gap and adjacent routes. Check back for further updates from the FA. Details

Description

Stem crux above ledge

Location

Fourth route from the north side

Protection

B,C

Photos

Crux above ledge was fun despite glued hold. If your belayer isn't attentive here you can deck on the ledge, don't. Any update on the route listed as an open project in SQLIII? Jul 20, 2017
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
  5.10-
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
  5.10-
the second clip off the ledge is the hardest part of the route. i don't know why it's way off to the left there when all the holds are on the right. Jun 7, 2010
Kyle Coleman
St Thomas, VI
 
Kyle Coleman   St Thomas, VI
 
Great climb, but wasn't sure about that hold that has been glued in. Seems solid though. Jun 14, 2009
Mike Senigo
Tucson, AZ
5.10-
Mike Senigo   Tucson, AZ
5.10-
It looks good right of the crux, but its best to stay on the boltline: stem it, get a good pull and grab that solid lip, clip up and enjoy. Jun 5, 2009
jonathan horst
Tucson, AZ
 
jonathan horst   Tucson, AZ
 
broken dreams...yeah. seriously glued on crux move hold. it's solid though. May 29, 2009
David K
5.10c
David K  
5.10c
The crux here was super tough for me. Feb 2, 2009