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Routes in Cave Wall

Bitter Table for One S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Broken Dreams S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Divorce Therapy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eman saves Tman S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hornass Nest S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lords of Karma S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Manly Woman S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Matterhorness S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Meat Gazer S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pali Gap S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pissed off Mofo S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shadows of the Mind S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
T and T S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Your Flesh is Weak S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: 2007 Tony Horness, Tony Lusk, Andy Tretiakoff, Jimi
Page Views: 85 total, 1/month
Shared By: Antoine Horness on Aug 10, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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UPDATE 09/23/11* Warning: Bolt and/or hangers missing. Bolts and/or rock on the far right hand side of this wall may be of questionable integrity. Bolts reportedly pulled on Pali Gap and adjacent routes. Check back for further updates from the FA. Details

Pali Gap notes

UPDATE 09/23/11* Warning: Bolt and/or hangers missing. Bolts and/or rock on the far right hand side of this wall may be of questionable integrity. Bolts reportedly pulled on Pali Gap and adjacent routes. Check back for further updates from the FA.

This route is the first route on the north side of the Cave Wall - Bulgy warm up B/C

Photos

NickMartel
Tucson, Arizona
  5.7+
NickMartel   Tucson, Arizona
  5.7+
I climbed this on 9.17.2011 and the bolt were fine. These were the 2 easiest routes on this wall regardless of what the #'s say. I urge you to re-open this route!!! It's FUN!!!!! Sep 26, 2011
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
  5.7
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
  5.7
Bummer that you shut down the routes. While I agree the rock quality isn't the greatest I doubt the routes were unsafe.

That said I appreciate that you are maintaining the crag and watching out for our safely. Sep 25, 2011
Antoine Horness
Tucson, AZ
 
Antoine Horness   Tucson, AZ
 
The anchors and hangers have been pulled from Lords of Karma and Pali Gap due to a report from a climber of loose bolts. Yesterday, I checked all of the anchors, hangers and bolts by shock loading them with a Grigri backup and could find no loose bolts. Some of the hangers and one of the anchors needed routine tightening. I don't think there is anything wrong but shut down the routes and pulled the anchors and hangers Sep 25, 2011
NickMartel
Tucson, Arizona
  5.7+
NickMartel   Tucson, Arizona
  5.7+
Very fun little route. Good climb for someone just starting to lead as there is a bolt every few feet. Also once you do this you can TR the 5.8 next to it. Sep 1, 2011
AmyH  
Looks like the right anchor bolt is loose. We hand tightened, but if you have a tool with you, bring it. May 30, 2011
Adam Block
Tucson, AZ
5.7
Adam Block   Tucson, AZ
5.7
For as much as you post right after I do on routes you aren't ticking you'd think you were following me :)

There is a difference between posting an observation and complaining, something to keep in mind for the next comment of mine you comment on. Be well brother. Jul 5, 2010
ryan dillon
Tucson, AZ.
ryan dillon   Tucson, AZ.
For as much as you complain about bolts you would think you were a trad climber. Jun 8, 2010
Adam Block
Tucson, AZ
5.7
Adam Block   Tucson, AZ
5.7
Both bolts seemed fine though not pointed in the correct direction for the least amount of stress. It was late when I was up there so I didn't fix it but I will next time I climb the route.

You can set top rope (or walk off) on this one however I would use caution and anchor in to one chain before trying to set them both up. Jun 7, 2010
James DeRoussel
Tucson, AZ
  5.7+
James DeRoussel   Tucson, AZ
  5.7+
The left bolt at the anchor flexes visibly under body weight. Oct 28, 2008