Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: 2007 Tony Horness, Tony Lusk, Andy Tretiakoff
Page Views: 149 total · 1/month
Shared By: Antoine Horness on Aug 11, 2008
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Access Issue: UPDATE 09/23/11* Warning: Bolt and/or hangers missing. Bolts and/or rock on the far right hand side of this wall may be of questionable integrity. Bolts reportedly pulled on Pali Gap and adjacent routes. Check back for further updates from the FA. Details

Description

Climb left of the bulge, the crux is off the ledge. The top part is fun with good exposure. Thanks to Kent Bruner for the inspiration for the name!

Location

10th route from the north end starts left of the obvious roof at Matterhorness

Protection

B,C

Description

Climb left of the bulge, harder to do without using the tree at the ledge

Location

10th route from the north end starts left of the obvious roof at Matterhorness

Protection

B,C

Photos

JayCap
5.9
JayCap  
5.9
Using the tree at the ledge? That tree doesn't look like it'll be there forever. Don't use tree and let's grade this climb for what it is, a good 5.9. Either that, or maybe I was having an off day when I climbed it. Anyway, this route is fun with three distinct cruxes. It climbs like three stacked boulder problems with breaks in between. Sep 22, 2008
The tree is no longer. Solid 5.9 now. Watch yourself climbing above the ledge. A fall here with a loose belay would equal broken ankles, or impalement on the agave growing right under the bolt. The last three feet are rather grainy and crumbly. Jan 30, 2009
David K  
Tree is gone. If you're short, this is harder because climbing the arette without feet is tough. Feb 2, 2009
Mike Senigo
Tucson, AZ
  5.9
Mike Senigo   Tucson, AZ
  5.9
Use the two holds just under the horn just right of the bolt above the ledge. Get your feet on and pull, its a fun move and that horn is money. Jun 5, 2009