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Routes in Kinsman Notch

Description

Kinsman Notch is perched high above rt. 112 just outside of North Woodstock. On the weekends the area is usually very crowded for a few good reasons

-There are a great variety of climbs (from WI2-WI4+ and even some mixed climbing) in close proximity to one another.
-The ice generally comes in fat with a few exceptions.
-Most of the climbs are easy to top rope from trees above (bring some long runners.)
-The heavily wooded area generally keeps the sun off of the ice and the wind out of the crag.
-North Woodstock has some interesting dining (check out the $1 egg sandwiches at the gas station) and is a classic old New Hampshire country town.

The crag has two distinct sections around the main flows. On the right the Pot o' Gold and Leprechaun's Lement area have numerous climbs and variations, and about 400 yards further left lies The Beast area. The trail from the nondescript parking lot will take you up (very steeply) to the right hand side of the crag, at the base of Pot o' Gold. Follow the cliff line to the left to reach the base of the other climbs.

Getting There

Go west from exit 32 off of I-93 into North Woodstock, at a blinking light (Rt 3) take a slight left (basically go straight ahead) to stay on Rt 112, continue on this road. Stay on Rt 112 where Rt 118 breaches off left. Go 1.7 miles beyond Rt 118 and park at a less than obvious pull-off on the left side of the road. ( 0.3 Mi. beyond the WMNF sign, and generally plowed out and full of cars on the weekend.)

The path starts from just beyond the uphill end of the usually-plowed area. Within a few feet of the start, the path goes through a stand of closely-spaced 2-3-inch diameter trees (2016). Hike up the hill towards the ice you can see from the car, aiming for the right (hopefully the trail is broken down for you. The trail is steep so bring your cardio lungs or get your but kicked. (and, depending on snow-surface conditions, consider putting on crampons at the car or at the first steep section...it just gets steeper)

Italic text added/Edited for clarity Feb 2017, R Hall NH Admin.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Kinsman Notch

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nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
At one time. It has been there for over 10 years and I tr'd it a couple times. Maybe a little harder in a different way than HBaM. I will ask. Dec 19, 2014
matthew ritter
West Campton, New Hampshire
matthew ritter   West Campton, New Hampshire
Does anybody know who bolted the shallow overhanging corner to the right of Hanging by a Moment? Or what the name is? Dec 18, 2014
keohan68
Landaff,NH
keohan68   Landaff,NH
This area was described to me as "Luck of the Irish"? I went there at the end of last season. It can get crowded on the weekends for sure, but is a great place to practice skills. youtube.com/watch?v=tUYF3CV… Sep 8, 2013
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
Mark, check with cunningham and sykes, I think they are putting out a new guidebook for the area. Jul 19, 2010
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Does anybody have any information on rock climbs in this area? Some of the crags look promising from the road. Jul 18, 2010
BrianWinslow
Concord, NH
BrianWinslow   Concord, NH
I couldn't remember the name for a while but I just drove through this weekend, Wayne's has $.99 egg sandwiches and coffee and it makes me laugh. On a serious note the Woodstock Inn and Brewery is great all the way around. Mar 27, 2008
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
BrianWinslow wrote:North Woodstock has some interesting dining (check out the $1 egg sandwiches at the gas station) and is a classic old New Hampshire country town.
Brian, I don't know which gas station you went to, but if the sandwiches are that good, I'll have to redefine my idea of "dining." Mar 26, 2008

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