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Newfound Lake Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Newfound Lake

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	Blood line WI3
	Duofold WI3-4
	Newfound Offwidth WI5- M2-3
	Pikeline WI3+
	Red Headwall, The WI4-5
	Slim Jim WI4 PG13

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Elevation:	588 ft	179 m
GPS:	43.64127, -71.78203 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	16,344 total · 79/month
Shared By:	Lee Hansche on Feb 28, 2008 · Updates
Admins:	Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

A fun little ice crag with a few worth while lines... Actually all the climbs that regularly form are really nice , then there are some obscure mixed or less reliable routes that are worth doing if they are in, but not classics... Crowds can sometimes an issue on weekends but midweek its a nice secret stash... The biggest challenge is the parking situation which is often changing... The roads are narrow so parking on the sides of the road is out... There was a small parking area a little north of the cliff that was recently developed by the owner of the property... Word on the street is that the owners of the lot are cool with you parking as long as you ask... If anyone has more info on parking please post...

There are Two popular routes both of which hold a few variations between grade 3 and 4... There is also a nice grade 5 curtain when it is in good shape... Routes are all 1 or 2 pitches and finish in the woods... Double 60m ropes will get you down from all routes... You can also walk off to the left (south) but its much easier to rap...

The best part of the crag is that you don't have to drive far for fat consistent ice... Rumney is great but it gets too much sun to be reliable... Being east facing, Newfound only gets the cold early morning light and there for it forms well...

Getting There

From south take exit 23 and head west on route 104 to the town of Bristol... At the town center take a right onto Lake st. (route 3A)... Follow this till you can take a left on to West Shore Rd.... Follow West Shore with the lake on your right till you see the ice climbs on your left (its a pretty obvious cliff at the top of a short steep hill)... Drive by the crag and the parking area is the next spot on the left... Ask Permission to park unless you know you can do otherwise..NOTE- See Comments- it is probably best NOT to park here. Two better spots are a pull-out on the Lake side about 5-10 min walk south of the crag, and the parking at Wellington State park, about a mile south of the crag. R Hall 2022

From the north take exit 26 as for Rumney and head west... At the traffic circle Head south on Route 3A for a while till you see a sign for the town of Hebron (This is North Shore Rd.) Follow North Shore Rd. in to Hebron and take a left on to West Shore Rd..

[NOTE: In Feb 2017 we found a parking pullout about 1/3 mile (5-8 min walk) south of the crag, in the lake-shore side of the road. Neither house (on the immediate other side of the road) look occupied so we just parked. As it was plowed in 2017 (heavy snow year) 3, or maybe 4, cars could have parked there with wheels off the white road stripe. R Hall NH Admin. 2017 ]

Another parking option is 1.0 miles south of the climbing area on the west side of West Shore Road at the Wellington State Park trail parking lot. It offers a larger parking lot and an easy walk along the road that avoids issues with landowners and snow removal operations. We thought thought it was well worth the 20-minute walk to avoid other problems. It is likely the parking lot conditions vary widely following snowfall, but recommend checking it out. Coordinates: 43.64003697070776, -71.78191886094307