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Routes in Newfound Lake

Blood line WI3
Duofold WI3-4
Pikeline WI4 PG13
Red Headwall, The WI5-
Unknown WI5- M2-3
Unkown 2 (Pikeline?) WI3+
Type: Ice
FA: Ron Reynolds and Mark King 1977
Page Views: 1,763 total, 15/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Feb 29, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Description

The line of weakness up the middle of cliff to the top... Really fun and typically fat...

Climb up on to the slab and head for the corner of ice above... The difficulty of the crux steep section is very dependent on conditions... sometimes it feels 3+ sometimes a soft 3 but always cool... After the business of the corner the angle eases up and you can cruse moderate slabs and bulges to the trees and belay from a tree with fixed rap rings...

There is a fun variation where you break left before the steep section and climb a narrow section of ice to a ledge with a small tree on it and finish above the red headwall over some bulges and slabs...

Location

The main line up the middle of the cliff... Starting on a slab and heading up a steep corner...

Rap the route...

Protection

Good solid screws all the way...
Ted Sumers  
 
climbed this on a super plastic day with hero ice, definitely felt like easy WI3. incredibly fun nonetheless-- one of my favorite pitches all season. Jun 3, 2013
adam cellemme
watertown, ma
adam cellemme   watertown, ma
Holy mackerel Goodhue! 2/3 of the way up this route today (which felt like tough 3 to me with fairly brittle ice the entire way) I tasted something sweet in my mouth. I chose to spit just ever-so-daintily and splattered the ice with blood. My partner, Ian, called me out on this at the belay: "Dude . . . did you leave blood on that route?"

I recall dislodging some mini-blocks toward my general face area . . . can never swing gently enough. Such a great climb! Jan 26, 2013
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
I just never get enough of this climb. There are many variations that feel completely different and probably span a full grad from 3- to 4- or even 4. I think one could climb it three times in a row findings different lines each time. This is all dependent on how "in" it is, of course. Jan 11, 2013
Ryan Barber
Rumney, NH
 
Ryan Barber   Rumney, NH
 
My first lead on ice!! I wish I knew about that repel, though, because I had a 70m that day, and still chose to walk all the way around to get down!! Feb 11, 2012
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
to my excitement i found that it is possible to rap from just left of bloodline with one 70M rope. when right before the final bulge lok left to a tree with rap slings on it. traverse left and you'll find up that this rap sling is backed up three times!! anyways with a 70M rope you can JUST barely touch ground, be sure to knot the ends and have the rope lined up on the middle Mar 20, 2009
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
ha thats awesome :) Jan 19, 2009
Goodhue
Boulder, CO
  WI3
Goodhue   Boulder, CO
  WI3
In a moment of beautiful coincidence, an icicle, that I hit with my helmet, dropped and cut across the bridge of my nose. Contributing my own blood to this line. Jan 19, 2009