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Routes in Newfound Lake

Blood line WI3
Duofold WI3-4
Pikeline WI4 PG13
Red Headwall, The WI5-
Unknown WI5- M2-3
Unkown 2 (Pikeline?) WI3+
Type: Ice
FA: bob pike, jim cummings and chris hassig, 1977
Page Views: 1,774 total, 15/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Feb 28, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

This is the best line at Newfound in my humble opinion... There are a few ways to get after it and all variations are fun... On a busy day you can have two ropes on the route on independent lines the left (harder) and the right (slightly more moderate)...

I normally do this route in 1 long pitch but some do split it up by belaying at a tree on the left between the two hard sections...

Climb the beginning one of three ways... Either climb a really fun chimney on the left where you are climbing ice with rock at your back, climb straight up some steep pillars in the middle, or go around the bulk of the steep stuff on the right hand side... After this you are on low angle ice and you can pretty much walk for about 20 feet... the upper section is gained via a slightly awkward corner that usually doesn't protect as well as the fat ice below (just bring some shorter screws just in case you need em') this leads to a hollow slab and another choice, to climb the nice headwall to the right consisting of some pillars that offer some interesting climbing, or a lower angle options on the left which looks like a walk but is often thin there for not well protected... belay at some fixed slings on a tree to the left (getting to the belay can be the last crux sometimes)...

Location

The right hand fat flow... a few variations possible...

Rappel the route with 2 60m ropes... [NOTE: See comments and photo; there's now an intermediate rap station on climber's left, about 50ft below the top rap-tree for two single-60m-rope raps. R Hall NH Admin.]

Protection

A variety of screws...
Brian
North Kingstown, RI
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
I put a piton in on the left rock wall 2/3-3/4 of the way up many years ago in thin conditions. It is probably suspect by now. Feb 24, 2017
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
This route can also be rapped with one 60M in two raps. One rap from the top rap station to a tree with a rap ring right above were the rock band starts on climbers left. Mar 20, 2009