Castle Crags Rock Climbing
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
|Page Views:||242,908 total · 1,306/month|
|Shared By:||Brian Quiter on Oct 30, 2007|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, Lurker -, Muscrat, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
The majority of the climbing is trad, but there is a small sportier area known as the Pin Cushion Wall. Pretty cool white/light grey rock that's overwhelming in quantity. Most the cracks are pretty easy to protect. Venturing out onto the dikes, where more solid rock can be found can require more creative placement than the mindless cam-to-crack-ing that can occur on your way up your average crack.
You can camp year-round in Castle Crags State Park either in the designated camp-sites - with running water and showers - or near the rock - where you have to pack in water - a 1.5 hour hike uphill from the camp. Fires are usually not permitted in the back country during the summer months, so consider that in your planning.
Also, the nearby town is supposed to be cute - but I didn't visit it. However, my friends did and it seems Dunsmuir has most camping necessities available.
Other than being a really long ways from the Bay Area (3-5 hours, depending where you live), the only other negative to this excellent climbing area is the minimum 1 hour (and sometimes 2 1/2) hour steadily uphill 1500 - 3000 vertical feet gain approach. If you're not warmed up by the time you're at your route, you're insane.
Check out that Map! Pretty bleak, huh?
Classic Climbing Routes at Castle Crags
Days w Precip