Elevation: 2,613 ft
GPS: 41.15954, -122.3059
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 242,908 total · 1,306/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Oct 30, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker -, Muscrat, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description

Located far into northern California, Castle Crags is a unique and enormous area that consists of fair to excellent quality granite spires, domes and walls, most with views of Mount Shasta. Climbs range in height from 20 feet to over 900 feet.

The majority of the climbing is trad, but there is a small sportier area known as the Pin Cushion Wall. Pretty cool white/light grey rock that's overwhelming in quantity. Most the cracks are pretty easy to protect. Venturing out onto the dikes, where more solid rock can be found can require more creative placement than the mindless cam-to-crack-ing that can occur on your way up your average crack.

You can camp year-round in Castle Crags State Park either in the designated camp-sites - with running water and showers - or near the rock - where you have to pack in water - a 1.5 hour hike uphill from the camp. Fires are usually not permitted in the back country during the summer months, so consider that in your planning.

Also, the nearby town is supposed to be cute - but I didn't visit it. However, my friends did and it seems Dunsmuir has most camping necessities available.

Other than being a really long ways from the Bay Area (3-5 hours, depending where you live), the only other negative to this excellent climbing area is the minimum 1 hour (and sometimes 2 1/2) hour steadily uphill 1500 - 3000 vertical feet gain approach. If you're not warmed up by the time you're at your route, you're insane.

Getting There

From the Bay Area (or almost anywhere in California) get on 5 northbound. About 45 miles north of Redding you'll get one warning sign 'Castle Crags State Park - Next Exit.' About 3/4 of a mile further, exit and hang a left. Follow the signs to the Park, then depending on your agenda park either near the campsites or up at Vista Point (also known as Viewpoint in Davis' Classic Rock Climbs). If you're staying backcountry overnight you must park at the State Park Scenic Overlook (near the campsites). Day parking permits are $4/day, or if you're paying to camp, you park for free.

Check out that Map! Pretty bleak, huh?

63 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Castle Crags

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c X
 22
Castle Dome - 4th class route
Trad 5 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
 161
Cosmic Wall
Trad 6 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 3
Easy Street
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 28
Six Toe Crack
Trad 3 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 10
NW Ridge
Trad 6 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
Psycho
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
Golden Opportunity
Trad 5 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 5
First Aid
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 3
Plumb Line
Trad 8 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 4
Spreading the Stoke
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 4
Angle of Inspiration
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 3
Parsvakonasana
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 10
The Dike Route (aka East Face)
Trad 8 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
The Dogs Bollocks
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Castle Dome - 4th class route Castle Dome
 22
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c X Trad 5 pitches
Cosmic Wall Ogre aka Mt Hubris
 161
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R Trad 6 pitches
Easy Street Six Toe Rock
 3
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Six Toe Crack Six Toe Rock
 28
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
NW Ridge Castle Dome
 10
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad 6 pitches
Psycho Indian Springs… > Pin Cushion Wall
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Golden Opportunity Ogre aka Mt Hubris
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 5 pitches
First Aid Indian Springs… > Pin Cushion Wall
 5
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Plumb Line Battle Mountain
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad 8 pitches
Spreading the Stoke Indian Springs… > Super Crack Spire
 4
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Angle of Inspiration Indian Springs… > Six Toe Backside
 4
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Parsvakonasana Indian Springs… > Six Toe Backside
 3
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
The Dike Route (aka East Face) Castle Dome
 10
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 8 pitches
The Dogs Bollocks Indian Springs… > Super Crack Spire
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Castle Crags »

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