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Routes in Castle Dome

Castle Dome - 4th class route T X
Dike Route (aka East Face), The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
NW Ridge T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
North Face - Castle Dome T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C0
Type: Trad, 1100 ft, 8 pitches
FA: John Bald et al.
Page Views: 5,296 total, 35/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on May 22, 2005
Admins: Aron Quiter, Rick Shull, Lurker, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The route climbs on or near a dike for 1100 feet of well featured face climbing. Climbing is sustained continuous 5.8 with many 5.9 sections and a few short 5.10 cruxes. Expect 20 to 30 foot runouts on 5.8 ground with more protection available during the harder stretches.The route is in the sun in the morning and goes into shade in the mid afternoon. The descent does not return to the base of the route. We found the Laird Davis guidebook description and topo accurate and easy to follow.

We were amazed at the continuous quality of this route; beautiful, relentlessly fun climbing for 900+ feet. Only the last pitch eases off to a nice summit scramble. We did not see any other people all day.

Protection

2 or 3 old bolts on most pitches. Bolted anchors on about half of the pitches. The crux bolt appears newer. Standard rack focusing on small to medium nuts and TCU's, 8-10 runners.
Crimper E6
cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
 
Crimper E6   cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
 
- wasted 1hr getting lost on the approach.. we eventually followed the dry river bed direct to hit the crag at the LHS

E4 6a for the UK crew. The guide mentioning funky gear placements just means know how to use wires, RP2 helped. A couple of the anchors/bolts felt dodgy..

If you fall on the crux pitch over the small roof your rope will potentially shred. Happened to 3 parties now!

Be careful on the descent, dangerous in the dark and wind!

Long amazing day out, go do it Oct 16, 2014
Rick D
Reno, NV
  5.11- R
Rick D   Reno, NV
  5.11- R
Fun climb. Really long day. We originally planned to do this then climb Shasta the next day. Needless to say, Shasta got pushed back a day.

We approached by the rock creek trail. Easy hiking for like two miles, then uphill bushwacking and fourth class scrambling.

Every pitch except for maybe the fith felt run out. And the run out's are typically on small cams or nuts or old lepper hangers. Get ready for some really creative placements (I slung a few horns for sure.)

The roof at the start of the third pitch felt really insecure and harder than 10d. Don't know if something has broken or not. By comparison, the roof on the 5'th pitch felt physically way easier than the first one (felt 10d) but was mentally challenging. Just don't think about the single bolt that is protecting your fall.

Every anchor has two bolts except for the top's of pitch's 6 and 7. The topo we were using says that there are two bolts at top of the 5.9+ sixth pitch, 110' above the last anchor. We never found the bolts and set up a trad anchor. If you climb any higher than this, you will be hard press to find anywhere to set an anchor.

We decended by heading south down the dome. Some sketchy fourth class through a water trough will eventually bring you to the trail. Jun 1, 2009
Rarely check this site, but ran into alpineaddict as having current info on new routes. Happy hunting...........John Nov 6, 2008
John, I was curious if you had any more beta or pictures for the Dike Route? Is a guide book for the area that you suggest? Thanks. Nov 29, 2007
One of the best in the crags! Did the fa long ago. Sep 14, 2006