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Routes in Six Toe Rock

Chocksucker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dead Precedents S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Easy Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy on T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Fresh Fruit For Rotten Vegetables S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
No Mercy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Over easy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Picture Perfect T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Six Toe Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stellar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 190 ft, 2 pitches
FA: ??
Page Views: 4,258 total, 26/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on May 27, 2004
Admins: Aron Quiter, Rick Shull, Lurker, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This route follows a continious crack system for two good pitches up Six Toe Rock. Pro is good and widely available. Rock quality is excellent and the line is direct.

Pitch 1: 100' 5.8Start with a tricky move off the ground to get situated in the crack above. Follow the crack for 90 more feet to a bolt anchor.

Pitch 2: 95' 5.8+Continue up the crack until you reach a short section of offwidth (#4 camalot) just before the anchor.

Descent:2 Raps with a 60m rope from fixed anchors.

Protection

Standard rack up to 4"
Cat.  
Another vote for doing the third pitch--the view from the top is dizzyingly gorgeous! Jul 11, 2016
Crimper E6
cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
 
Crimper E6   cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
 
Bit average , OW is the best bit. Easy on is better. May 31, 2015
Muscrat    
Strange, i have taken 1/2dz people up this, always thought it was 5.7? Good fun, and the offwidth can be done w/o pro (oops, forgot my #4) or step right and then back left. Fun either way. Offsets work well on all the climbs here, of which i know of six.
And the third pitch is not to be missed, not for the climb but for the top out, great views. Nov 3, 2014
fivefun  
The whole route is low angle with only a few 5.8 moves. The OW at the top is great fun and a good intro to #4 size crack climbing. Bring one and walk it all the way up for a top rope on lead. Dec 2, 2013
Chris G.
Lakewood
 
Chris G.   Lakewood
 
Good route. The last 10-15 foot off width section is a little heady, its all there just commit. Jun 17, 2013
rhyang
San Jose, CA
 
rhyang   San Jose, CA
 
You can do a third pitch of about 100' to the top of the formation. Take the dihedral up the right side, about 5.6. There are two nice new looking bolts and rap chains at the top, contrary to what the guidebook says.

The offwidth on pitch two can also be traversed around on the right (though I think this is part of the neighboring route, Chocksucker). Extra #0.75 - 1 camalots can come in handy to protect the traverse. Jun 22, 2010