Type: Trad, 190 ft, 2 pitches
FA: ??
Page Views: 4,727 total · 27/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on May 27, 2004
Admins: Aron Quiter, Muscrat, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This route follows a continious crack system for two good pitches up Six Toe Rock. Pro is good and widely available. Rock quality is excellent and the line is direct.

Pitch 1: 100' 5.8Start with a tricky move off the ground to get situated in the crack above. Follow the crack for 90 more feet to a bolt anchor.

Pitch 2: 95' 5.8+Continue up the crack until you reach a short section of offwidth (#4 camalot) just before the anchor.

Descent:2 Raps with a 60m rope from fixed anchors.

Protection

Standard rack up to 4"

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Photos

it was cruisy bro!
it was cruisy bro!
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http://www.dirtmyth.com/2011/07/castle-crags-ca-six-toe-crack-climbing.html
http://www.dirtmyth.com/2011/07/castle-crags-ca…
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How to do it if u have the right gear! Jules butterfly jamming the OW..Boss
How to do it if u have the right gear! Jules bu…
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looking up at Pitch 1 from base
looking up at Pitch 1 from base
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What to do when you have nothing larger than a #2 at the offwidth
What to do when you have nothing larger than a…
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the route from the dome trail
the route from the dome trail
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Near the top of pitch 2.
Near the top of pitch 2.
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6 Comments

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rhyang
San Jose, CA
 
rhyang   San Jose, CA
 
You can do a third pitch of about 100' to the top of the formation. Take the dihedral up the right side, about 5.6. There are two nice new looking bolts and rap chains at the top, contrary to what the guidebook says.

The offwidth on pitch two can also be traversed around on the right (though I think this is part of the neighboring route, Chocksucker). Extra #0.75 - 1 camalots can come in handy to protect the traverse. Jun 22, 2010
Chris G.
Lakewood
 
Chris G.   Lakewood
 
Good route. The last 10-15 foot off width section is a little heady, its all there just commit. Jun 17, 2013
Will M.
Oakland
Will M.   Oakland
The whole route is low angle with only a few 5.8 moves. The OW at the top is great fun and a good intro to #4 size crack climbing. Bring one and walk it all the way up for a top rope on lead. Dec 2, 2013
Muscrat

  5.8+
Muscrat    
  5.8+
Strange, i have taken 1/2dz people up this, always thought it was 5.7? Good fun, and the offwidth can be done w/o pro (oops, forgot my #4) or step right and then back left. Fun either way. Offsets work well on all the climbs here, of which i know of six.
And the third pitch is not to be missed, not for the climb but for the top out, great views. Nov 3, 2014
Crimper E6
cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
 
Crimper E6   cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
 
Bit average , OW is the best bit. Easy on is better. May 31, 2015
Cat.
Cat.  
Another vote for doing the third pitch--the view from the top is dizzyingly gorgeous! Jul 11, 2016