Elevation: 711 ft
GPS: 39.96, -83.013 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: John- on Jul 16, 2007 with updates from tarsaucer Martin and 1 other
Admins: Courtney Curtner

Welcome!

With the database growing ~daily, hopefully you are able to find something to your liking.

If you are looking for specific types of climbing.. you can look up those routes quickly by using the show routes drop down box.

There are many crags to be found .. just look. LNT ethics are the goal since everyone will never be the first on the ground there .. watch your impact.

As a significant side note: climbing in Ohio is still fairly "touch and go." Deliberately lying to authorities can only bite you when they discover otherwise. Climbing in areas deemed presently illegal by the areas vested authority damages the efforts of fellow climbers working to secure legal access.

Popular Areas (By Region)

Central Ohio (Columbus Area)

Columbus is not only the state capital, but it is also located in the center of the state. With I-70 traveling west/east and I-71 going southwest/ northeast, you can access a lot of great climbing from the city.

If you choose to head west, you are about an hour drive from the Mad River Gorge & Nature Preserve in Springfield. This is the largest sport climbing area in the state and it is also home to a lot of awesome bouldering as well.

For those choosing to go east, you've got a variety of options including the Tri-Valley Wildlife Area (northeast of Zanesville) and Salt Fork State Park which is about an hour and a half from Columbus.

Columbus Metroparks also offers a fun outdoor artificial climbing wall at Scioto Audubon Metro Park. This climbing area has bouldering, top rope, and lead climbing opportunities, and in the summer they have night time climbing events as well. The park also has some autobelays setup during the popular climbing outdoor climbing seasons.

Northeast Ohio (Akron/ Cleveland and Youngstown Areas)

Though there is a lot of climbing potential in northeast Ohio, in many areas, climbing is prohibited. It is important to make sure that you check out this information before heading out to the crag. There is work being done by the Ohio Climbers Coalition to talk to landowners about potentially opening up more climbing, but until then, it is suggested that you check out areas that are open to climbers.

About an hour south of Akron is the Beach City Wildlife Area, a property managed by the Ohio Department of Natural Resources. This area has some top roping routes at the Big Wall area and lots of potential for bouldering as well. In general the rock is soft sandstone, so it can be chossy, but if you are in the area, it isn't a bad spot to check out as there is great hiking as well.

In between Akron and Cleveland (approximately 45 minutes drive from each city) is Whipps Ledges. This area is managed by the Cleveland Metro Parks and is the largest climbing area in this part of the state. Most routes are setup to be top roped using trees, so make sure to bring appropriate equipment to set up. As of November 2018, Cleveland Metro Parks no longer requires individual climbers to acquire a permit before climbing here which is great news. This is the only area managed by Cleveland Metro Parks that allows any climbing currently.

If you are in the Youngstown area, check out Logtown in Lisbon (approximately 45 minutes south from Youngstown). Logtown is a former quarry that became a popular climbing area in the late 70's- 80's when a lot of the routes were first established. Today you can find a good variety of sport, trad, and some top roping options. Most of the routes have been rebolted (in 2018) with stainless steel wave bolts, and graffiti and general stewardship work has also been occurring as this classic area is seeing more visitors.

Northwest Ohio (Bowling Green/ Toledo Areas)

This may be shocking news to most, but there is climbing in northwest Ohio! Yes, the flat, windswept lands near Toledo actually have some legal bouldering areas thanks to Metroparks Toledo and the Wood County Park District. There is not much information currently available about Sawyer Quarry Nature Preserve (15 minutes south of Toledo) or Blue Creek Metropark (30 minutes southwest of Toledo), but if you are looking to get on some rock in NW Ohio, here is your chance. Check it out and help update those pages with photos and beta!

Southeast Ohio (Athens Area)

Southeast Ohio is best known for awesome bouldering and hiking, and there is also some top roping, sport, and trad climbing that is developing as well. There are no major metropolitan areas, but with Athens being home to Ohio University, it is a great spot to start your climbing adventures in this part of the state.

Athens is one of the more popular bouldering areas in the state and for good reason. There are three areas (Witches area is divided into two sections) with a diverse range of difficulty so you can find problems to climb whether you are new to bouldering or are an old dirtbag who has been doing this for years. With Athens being a college town, you can also find some excellent food and beverage options in town once you are exhausted from a day of climbing.

About 40 minutes northwest of Athens (or an hour south of Columbus) is Hocking Hills State Forest. This area is a popular hiking spot, but there is also bouldering and top roping as well. Climbing is only allowed in the designated "climbing and rappelling" areas. The rock can be quite chossy in some parts, so make sure to wear a helmet, especially while belaying.

Kiedaisch Point is a small sport and trad area located right by the Ohio River just north of Hannibal (about an hour south of Wheeling, WV). Routes are 30-40 feet tall, and there is enough space for people to spread out so it doesn't feel too crowded.

A recreational area located in Wayne National Forest, Lake Vesuvius is host to bouldering, sport, and top roping routes mostly next to the lake shore (a definite plus in the summer). It is about an hour and a half from Athens or two hours from Columbus near the south central tip of Ohio.

Southwest Ohio (Dayton/ Cincinnati Areas)

The Dayton and Cincinnati areas of southwest Ohio host fun climbs with very easy approaches to a lot of the walls. You can find climbing for those just getting into the sport, challenging boulder problems, and top roping on an old reservoir wall that overlooks a major city!

Eden Park is a 25 foot wall that is 300-400 feet long and overlooks the city of Cincinnati. This wall used to be an old reservoir, but now you can setup top ropes, boulder and traverse along it. You'll also see people learning to rappel from the top as the bottom includes a nice flat, grassy area.

If you are looking for a well-developed top roping area, check out John Bryan State Park in Yellow Springs. About 30 minutes East from Dayton or an hour west from Columbus, John Bryan has six designated top rope areas that can be found along the North Rim trail. Each area is designated by a different color and has permanent eye bolt anchors at the top. Make sure to bring plenty of webbing to setup your top rope. Routes vary in difficulty from 5.4- 5.11b depending on where you setup.

In Springfield just off of I-70 (and about 30 minutes from Dayton) you will find the Mad River Gorge & Nature Preserve. This area currently has the most climbing routes in the state and you can find a large variety of sport, bouldering, and some trad climbing here. The approaches from the parking lot are usually a very short walk (5-10 minutes at most), and more development is planned for the future. The Mad has a long history of climbing going back to the 70s, though climbing was not made legal until the area was opened as a park in May 2017.

Ohio Climbers Coalition

The Ohio Climbers Coalition is an affiliate of the Access Fund that works to protect and develop climbing areas all over the state. In May 2017, they worked with the Access Fund and Clark County Parks District to officially open the Mad River Gorge & Nature Preserve to climbing.

For more information about the Ohio Climbers Coalition, visit their website or social media pages:

Ohio Climbers Coalition Website

Ohio Climbers Coalition Facebook Page

Ohio Climbers Coalition Instagram Profile

885 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Ohio

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V2+ 5+
 12
The POO arete
Boulder
V3 6A
 4
Triangle Arete 2
Boulder
V4 6B
 3
Bird's Nest
Boulder
V5 6C PG13
 11
Monkey Swing
Boulder
V5 6C
 4
Tarantula
Boulder
V7- 7A+ PG13
 3
Snowblind
Boulder
V7 7A+
 3
Anxious Arrival
Boulder
V9 7C
 3
Inches and Fractions
Boulder
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 48
Excellent Ella
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 23
The Crack
TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 39
Slingshot
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 42
Scrub-a-Dub-Dub
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 28
Slippery When Wet
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 10
Smokey
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 11
Recycler
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The POO arete Northeast Ohio > Chippewa Creek > Downstream
 12
V2+ 5+ Boulder
Triangle Arete 2 Southeast Ohio > Hocking Hills S… > Rectangle Rock
 4
V3 6A Boulder
Bird's Nest Southeast Ohio > … > Trailer Park Bo… > Commitment Boulder
 3
V4 6B Boulder
Monkey Swing Northeast Ohio > Chippewa Creek > Downstream
 11
V5 6C PG13 Boulder
Tarantula Central Ohio > Dillon Lakeside
 4
V5 6C Boulder
Snowblind Central Ohio > Dillon Lakeside
 3
V7- 7A+ PG13 Boulder
Anxious Arrival Southwest Ohio > … > MRG Southeast (… > Amusement Wall
 3
V7 7A+ Boulder
Inches and Fractions Central Ohio > Tri-Valley Wild… > Brady’s Bluff
 3
V9 7C Boulder
Excellent Ella Southwest Ohio > … > MRG Southeast (… > Dad's Wall (aka Glass…
 48
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
The Crack Northeast Ohio > Whipps Ledges > Main Wall
 23
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR
Slingshot Southwest Ohio > … > MRG Southeast (… > Amusement Wall
 39
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Scrub-a-Dub-Dub Southwest Ohio > … > MRG Southeast (… > Clear Creek Crag
 42
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Slippery When Wet Southwest Ohio > … > MRG Southeast (… > Clear Creek Crag
 28
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Smokey Southwest Ohio > … > Overpass Area > Overpass Wall
 10
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Recycler Southwest Ohio > … > MRG Southeast (… > Clear Creek Crag
 11
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Ohio »

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Photos

jhump  
Under Squaw Rock section is Logtown. This should not be here. Logtown has its own section and is nowhere near Squaw Rock (75 miles away?). May 10, 2009
Does anyone know of any climbing near Canton or Youngstown? Also, are there any climbers on here from this area? May 3, 2010
will be heading to New Phila to visit the family in late May and then driving down to the Red River Gorge....I've heard Hocking Hills has some climbing. We are looking for sport 5.8-5.11 or some easier trad routes. Any suggestions? Anything else on the way? Thanks! Apr 19, 2011
In Cbus for a week 9/8 to 9/13 looking to get a Red River Gorge trip or any climbing trip going :) I lead solid 5.11 sport and 5.10 trad. e-mail me on here if you're interested! Sep 7, 2013
Alert !!! Cleveland Metroparks !! Metroparks rangers are confinscating climbers gear. The only metropark you can legaly climb in is Whipps Ledges by permit only. I have climbed around Cleveland since 1971 and have rarely had trouble.in the past year I am hearing stories of rangers pulling ropes off climbs at Whipps and actualy searching peoples cars! They take your gear and give you a 120$ ticket. Barefoot solo anyone? Anyone remember the Vulgarians? Sep 6, 2014
tarsaucer Martin
Moscow, ID
tarsaucer Martin   Moscow, ID
does anyone think it would be a good idea to add an ohio link for "indoor climbing areas" on the main ohio MP page? Dec 20, 2014
Jeff Dunbar
Charlotte, NC
Jeff Dunbar   Charlotte, NC
Hi, I am moving to Hudson, OH, in mid July and I am looking for serious training partners to get back in shape for many climbing trips to the New and the Red this fall. Any suggestions for where I should go (in person and/or online) to meet others in NE Ohio who are serious about training for outdoor climbing? 

I can lead easy 5.10 sport/trad off the couch, but I hope to be leading hard 5.11 trad/sport by the end of the year. Multiple training partners are welcome! PM me if interested... Jun 11, 2015
Eplumer400
Cleveland, OH
Eplumer400   Cleveland, OH
I'm making more of a habit to go to Whipp's Ledges more often, and therefore am going to try to clean the area information up a bit and add some routes that are being climbed but not recorded. PM me if you have anything to add or suggestions. Jul 15, 2016
mike varlotta
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
mike varlotta   Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
My son and I are going to be passing through Ohio this June/July on our quest to climb in all 50 states... Can anyone recommend the best place to go for a day of climbing? Preferably leading (sport or trad) bouldering or top-roping ok, too. Jan 13, 2017
Courtney Curtner
Dayton, OH
Courtney Curtner   Dayton, OH
Mike,

There is going to be a huge area in Springfield, Ohio being developed this spring that would lead to an excellent day of climbing. It is going to be known as the Mad River Gorge (aka Springfield Gorge) and will provide some great rocks to lead or top rope. Also in the southwest Ohio area there is John Bryan which has some short but enjoyable walls to top rope. There is also some great bouldering in the Athens, OH (south central Ohio) area. Just north of Athens is the Hocking Hills which has fun top roping (and amazing hiking- Old Man's Cave!). Good luck on your journey to climb in all 50 states! I'm on a similar quest with my boyfriend! Jan 16, 2017
Any know of any areas relatively close to the Cincinnati are to do some outdoor rappelling. Closer than red river gorge? Feb 24, 2017
J B
J B  
a couple of years ago i was checking out liberty park recreational area in twinsburg. I stumbled upon some bolted routes about 35 to 40 feet high and was wondering if anyone else was aware of this area or has any info. some of the routes look really good for ohio. of course ohio parks suck and it has the area marked as a nature preserve so climbing is not permitted. I'm convinced this was a hidden gem before ohio took possession once again of more property. i'll probably take old gear out there with my bro and try to climb in the near future. i think this area would be perfect for the access fund to acquire. someone put a lot of work into bolting those routes and i hate to see it go to waste. i have added this place to mountain project and i hope to see people check it out. ne ohio is hurting for some sport routes and this place delivers. the parking lot is on liberty rd. right across from post rd. in twinsburg. May 5, 2017