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MRG Southeast (aka Darkside) Climbing
Areas in MRG Southeast (aka Darkside)
Amusement Wall
1 /
12 /
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33 /
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46
Back Alley
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4 /
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4
CarbCap Boulder
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2 /
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2
Clear Creek Crag
5 /
28 /
1 /
1 /
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1 /
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35
Dad's Wall (aka Glass Buttress)
6 /
3 /
1 /
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10
Dirty Little Boulder
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5 /
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5
Eastern Slabs
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1 /
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1
Fern Buttress
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2 /
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5 /
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7
Fern Buttress Adjacent
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7 /
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7
Hippie Central
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2 /
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2
New York Boulder
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2 /
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2
Overpass Area
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10 /
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9 /
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21
Pooh's Corner
2 /
2 /
1 /
1 /
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6
Suburban Boulder
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5 /
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5
Yacht Club Cluster
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11 /
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11
| Elevation: | 896 ft |
| GPS: | 39.915, -83.859 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 166,569 total · 4,157/month |
| Shared By: | Courtney Curtner on Mar 7, 2018 |
| Admins: | Courtney Curtner |
Description
Shaded area on the south side of the river. There are a wide range of routes in this area and some great classic climbs like CTB (5.10b on Amusement Wall), Super Dads (5.10b on Dad's Wall), Recycler (5.12b on Clear Creek Crag), and Slippery When Wet (5.10a on Clear Creek Crag). If you are new to leading outside, Excellent Ella (5.6 on Dad's Wall) is a great first lead! All walls are just off the main trail, so getting to the wall only requires a 2-5 minute hike depending on where you want to climb. Most climbs are bolted sport routes, but some trad lines are also available. Bouldering routes have started to be developed in the area as well so there are great options for everyone.
Getting There
From the parking lot, walk past the kiosk and down main stairwell. Turn right at main trail that follows the river. The first wall on your immediate right is the Clear Creek Crag, and on the far end of the main trail you will find the Overpass Area (which is the wall that is on the right side of the river and located by the overpass for SR 68).
Classic Climbing Routes at MRG Southeast (aka Darkside)
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
| Route Name | Location | Star Rating | Difficulty | Date |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| ● What Just Bit Me | Amusement Wall |
|
V2-3 5+ PG13 Boulder | |
| ● Lukewarm Sausage | Amusement Wall |
|
V3 6A Boulder | |
| ● Excellent Ella | Dad's Wall (aka Glass… |
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport | |
| ● Knope We Can | Amusement Wall |
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport | |
| ● Slingshot | Amusement Wall |
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport | |
| ● Scrub-a-Dub-Dub | Clear Creek Crag |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport | |
| ● 6 pack | Clear Creek Crag |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport | |
| ● Wu Who | Amusement Wall |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport | |
| ● Slippery When Wet | Clear Creek Crag |
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport | |
| ● Slappy McCracken | Amusement Wall |
|
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport | |
| ● Bangarang | Amusement Wall |
|
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport | |
| ● Smokey | Overpass Area > Overpass Wall |
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport | |
| ● J-Ella | Dad's Wall (aka Glass… |
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport | |
| ● Squeeze Box | Clear Creek Crag |
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport | |
| ● Recycler | Clear Creek Crag |
|
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport |
Weather Averages
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Guidebooks (2)
Featured Guidebook:
The Mad River Gorge: Rock Climbing in SW Ohio
Steve Zuraski and Katie Joh…
The Mad River Gorge climbing guidebook is a reference to be used by climbers who are planning to…
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