Elevation: 740 ft
GPS: 41.32, -81.618 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 117,124 total · 692/month
Shared By: John Aron on Jul 15, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Courtney Curtner
Access Issue: Details

Description

Was once a quite and secluded area from the main populace where you could find quiet and not many climbers ...

... Chippewa Creek Gorge was formed by glacier movements thousands of years ago. These glaciers exposed outcrops of Shale, Berea Sandstone, and Euclid Bluestone. In the late 1800s the Berea Sandstone and the Euclid Bluestone were quarried for use as building materials. This ended in the early 20th century due to a decreased demand for natural stone for construction. Brecksville Reservation was declared a public park soon after.

   In the late 1990s the first information about climbing in the park was posted to another rock climbing website. Problems were put up and documented by that generation of climbers, but not everything was posted back then, and the website ended up becoming defunct. Legal access to the park for climbing was problematic. There was a high risk of getting your gear confiscated by park rangers. Around this time, Jeffery Bonatti created a series of hand drawn “Ruff Guides” for the park, but they weren’t highly accessible. Due to this lack of organized information, each subsequent generation of climbers claimed FAs and gave names to lines that have likely been claimed and named multiple times before throughout the years. To add to this, the moss and lichen covers boulders that don’t see much traffic and makes it look like they’ve never been touched. The creek changes the sand bars and covers or reveals footholds and washes away evidence of being climbed.

   Currently, the park is more accessible and more developed for climbing than recent history. There is a trail being made by the park system going from the main Gorge Rim trail down to the creek where Pinch Arete and Keyhole are. Due to the volume of climbers that have been recreating in the park, it no longer feels sketchy to walk in with pads for a session due to power of the masses. On any pleasant day you can fully expect to see other people climbing. Work is being done to organize the lines into a definitive list with proper photos, names, locations, and grades. 

   On the topic of conditions, many problems have had holds broken off in recent years due to being climbed when the rock is still wet. The boulders in the creek itself are much more tolerant to this due to many years of water erosion, but the rock higher up on the cliff line isn’t used to this kind of stress and breaks surprisingly easy. Surprising like, wow I’m falling but the hold is still in my hands, surprising. It usually takes a solid three days of dryness and wind to get back into shape after a good, longer in the spring and winter.

   The main parking area for climbing access is the Pavilion area at the East end of Chippewa Creek Drive. It isn’t the first lot by the waterfall, it is ~1000ft down the road, where there are four parking areas grouped together with a swing set and a pavilion. If you walk straight North from the swing set you'll find the chained entrance to the climbing trail with a sign that states “Stay on the designated trail.”

Stay on designated trails.

Getting There

South of 82, East of 21. Food is available at the Heinens supermarket on 82.

The first parking area is downstream from the dam and provides access to a fewhighball problems. Further south on the park drive is another large parking area with families, swing sets, and pavilions. The approach here isn't as straight forward yet it is organized.

94 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Chippewa Creek

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V1+ 5
 12
Money Moves
Boulder
V2 5+
 21
Pinch Arete
Boulder
V2+ 5+
 31
The POO arete
Boulder
V3 6A
 9
The Rib
Boulder
V4 6B
 16
Thugged Out Since Cub Scouts
Boulder
V5 6C
 21
Los Nuggets
Boulder
V5 6C PG13
 30
Monkey Swing
Boulder
V5 6C
 3
The Star Arete
Boulder
V6 7A
 3
Boyscout
Boulder
V7 7A+
 20
Fight or Flight
Boulder
V7 7A+
 11
Racist Arete
Boulder
V7 7A+
 7
Blood Gnome (Sit Start)
Boulder
V7 7A+ R
 4
Hang line
Boulder
V8 7B
 9
An 8th of Crack
Boulder
V9 7C PG13
 6
illusions of grandeur
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Money Moves Downstream
 12
V1+ 5 Boulder
Pinch Arete Midstream
 21
V2 5+ Boulder
The POO arete Downstream
 31
V2+ 5+ Boulder
The Rib Upstream
 9
V3 6A Boulder
Thugged Out Since Cub Scouts Downstream
 16
V4 6B Boulder
Los Nuggets Downstream
 21
V5 6C Boulder
Monkey Swing Downstream
 30
V5 6C PG13 Boulder
The Star Arete Downstream
 3
V5 6C Boulder
Boyscout Downstream
 3
V6 7A Boulder
Fight or Flight Midstream
 20
V7 7A+ Boulder
Racist Arete Upstream
 11
V7 7A+ Boulder
Blood Gnome (Sit Start) Upstream
 7
V7 7A+ Boulder
Hang line Hanger
 4
V7 7A+ R Boulder
An 8th of Crack Downstream
 9
V8 7B Boulder
illusions of grandeur Hanger
 6
V9 7C PG13 Boulder
More Classic Climbs in Chippewa Creek »

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