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Genesis Wall and East Side Boulders Climbing
Routes in F. Genesis Wall and East Side Boulders
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Between a Flood and a Lockdown V3 6A |
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Built for Business S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Casual Business S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Closed for Business - closed project S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Diversion S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Genesis S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Give Thanks V3 6A |
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Merci V4-5 6B+ |
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Mungdungus Corner T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Murphy's Law V7 7A+ |
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Pipedream- Closed Project S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Pound of Flesh - closed project S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Slanderfest S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Slippery When Wet V3+ 6A+ |
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Thankfully V2 5+ |
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Thanksgiving Parade V4+ 6B+ |
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Witless & Fitless S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Elevation: | 845 ft |
| GPS: | 40.07, -82.262 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 8,708 total · 709/month |
| Shared By: | Jordan Katz on Feb 28, 2020 |
| Admins: | Courtney Curtner |
Access Issue: Private Property
Details
The right (east) side, all roped climbing, is owned by Village of Hanover, which seems ambivalent to climbing. Left side, bouldering, is private property, but the owner has not had a problem with climbing SO FAR. Continued access is far from guaranteed! Rapidly growing crag traffic has become a potential issue.
On the bouldering (west) side, please do not hang out up top or go exploring above the main cliff line. It is private property and we need to keep a low profile. The owner has been hands off so far. Let's try to ensure things stay that way please. Hanging out up top could cause problems with the property owner.
Please do not climb above the roped climbs. Hanging out on the edge of the cliff without ropes is dangerous and the last thing we want is to have an ambulance/injury/fatality there. Please don't endanger crag access through short-sighted behavior!
Please be upstanders and take good care of the crag to help preserve access. Don't leave your trash, and even pack out any trash somebody else might have left behind.
On the bouldering (west) side, please do not hang out up top or go exploring above the main cliff line. It is private property and we need to keep a low profile. The owner has been hands off so far. Let's try to ensure things stay that way please. Hanging out up top could cause problems with the property owner.
Please do not climb above the roped climbs. Hanging out on the edge of the cliff without ropes is dangerous and the last thing we want is to have an ambulance/injury/fatality there. Please don't endanger crag access through short-sighted behavior!
Please be upstanders and take good care of the crag to help preserve access. Don't leave your trash, and even pack out any trash somebody else might have left behind.
Description
The Genesis Wall offers some of the hardest full-length sport lines at Marne. Great climbing. Test your pocket pulling and crimp power on the face that is surprisingly steep! The bottom 6-10 feet has a problem with seeping that can last through the spring, but above that the routes tend to stay fairly dry year round.
One of the best routes at the crag is Casual Business that follows the arrete between PI Wall and Genesis Wall. In the corner on the right side, a widening dihedral crack will put your trad skills to the test. It is a bit spicy!
Around the corner to the right are a few fun boulder problems, with the potential for more moderates with a good bit of cleaning, or what may well be some very high quality double digit material. Any takers? Strong men? Lady crushers?
One of the best routes at the crag is Casual Business that follows the arrete between PI Wall and Genesis Wall. In the corner on the right side, a widening dihedral crack will put your trad skills to the test. It is a bit spicy!
Around the corner to the right are a few fun boulder problems, with the potential for more moderates with a good bit of cleaning, or what may well be some very high quality double digit material. Any takers? Strong men? Lady crushers?
Getting There
This is the area closest to treatment plant, but please enter from the main access trail along Marne Rd (don't come in behind the sewage treatment plant). As you enter, go right along the cliff line past Warmup Wall and Katz Wall and the Cave, and then around the corner and up a small hill to the Genesis Wall.
Just a bit further down are a handful of boulder problems. Go further still to discover what could be the most amazing bouldering cave ever, if only it weren't permanently soaked and mossy and with 1500 pounds of assorted detritus in it.
Just a bit further down are a handful of boulder problems. Go further still to discover what could be the most amazing bouldering cave ever, if only it weren't permanently soaked and mossy and with 1500 pounds of assorted detritus in it.
Classic Climbing Routes at Genesis Wall and East Side Boulders
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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