|GPS:||40.073, -82.259 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
|Page Views:||67,087 total · 576/month|
|Shared By:||Jordan Katz on Feb 21, 2011 with 12 Suggestions|
On the bouldering (west) side, please do not hang out up top or go exploring above the main cliff line. It is private property and we need to keep a low profile. The owner has been hands off so far. Let's try to ensure things stay that way please. Hanging out up top could cause problems with the property owner.
Please do not climb above the roped climbs. Hanging out on the edge of the cliff without ropes is dangerous and the last thing we want is to have an ambulance/injury/fatality there. Please don't endanger crag access through short-sighted behavior!
Please be upstanders and take good care of the crag to help preserve access. Don't leave your trash, and even pack out any trash somebody else might have left behind.
Help fight COVID-19: This is a small local crag, and it's a global pandemic out there. Please help us keep Marne Rd a safe place for yourself and other climbers. Check out this guide from the Access Fund about climbing responsibly during the coronavirus pandemic. Please stay local, respect social distancing (6+ feet), keep your group size to a bare minimum (ideally all from just one household, or you and one other regular partner only), and apply hand sanitizer liberally. Stay safe out there and make sure others are safe too!
Please consider making a contribution: If you value the crag as a resource and appreciate the blood and sweat and especially the many dollars that have gone and continue to go into developing our local crag from nothing into what it is today, please consider giving back and making a contribution to support ongoing hardware investments. Any amount helps -- even just $5 or $10 -- and you can easily give through PayPal or Venmo. If you have any questions about making a contribution, monetary or otherwise, please contact Jordan.
HUGE thanks to those who have already generously contributed: Andrew L., Noah B., Sam B., Joshua J., Meg L., Charles C., Jacob M., Zachery R., Susan R., Kenichi S., Kristen B., Josh T., Luke P., Drew J., Audrey B., K.B., Matt P., Michael H., Drew S., Johanna H., Timothy M., Deborah B., Rick D., Alexandra G., Jordan D., Samuel H., Jared F., Nick D., Eli K., Barry B., Joe C., Shona, G., Andy S., Michelle E., Steven N., Vern M. and Cameron T.!!!
You can also connect with the community on Facebook
This little roadside crag has a bit of everything! There are sport and trad lines, as well as a growing collection of boulder problems (including some highballs). There is vertical techy climbing, steep and thuggy jug hauling, hard pocket pulling, and some fun crack climbing, from thin fingers to off-widths. It's got everything from 5.5 to 5.13 and V1 to V8. Roped climbs range from about 25 to 65 or so feet in length. Rock is sandstone (similar to the Red in many ways), although its quality does vary from bullet-hard to crumbly choss.
Please do not go "exploring" above the cliff-line or above the bouldering area in search of new problems or routes. The land is private property! Please stay on the main established trails.
Unfortunately in a number of places the rock, and the cracks in particular, tend to stay wet until early summer due to runoff and seepage, and so winter and spring climbing can be hit or miss. The rock is surprisingly good (for Ohio!), but there are bands of obviously chossy rock. Holds may break in unpredictable ways. Avoid climbing when rock is wet, and please climb with care to avoid breaking holds unnecessarily.
Climbing is dangerous! Climb at your own risk, and you always assume complete responsibility for your own safety. For trad, think carefully about the integrity of the rock for all placements! If bouldering be aware there are several problems with high cruxes where you wouldn't want to fall without spotters and a quiver of pads. For sport routes, the bolting is definitely done assuming a stick-clip will be used (that is, very high 1st bolt), but otherwise bolts are always well spaced to keep things safe. Without a stick clip some starts will be very sketchy. Trust me: bring a stick-clip. Better yet, a long one.
On the anchors of every route there are either a pair of fixed anchor hooks. Very important: only use the hooks to lower the LAST climber in your party. Please do NOT climb on top rope through the hooks. If more than one person is climbing the route, always clip your rope through your own quickdraws to the anchors. Then, once everybody in your party has climbed the route, the last climber simply needs to clip the rope through the hooks, remove your draws, and be lowered. (Anchor cleaning and rappelling is not best practice and is much more likely to lead to an accident.)
The right (east) side, mostly roped climbing, is owned by Village of Hanover, which seems ambivalent to climbing. Left side, bouldering, is private property, but the owner has been OK with climbing so far. Continued access is far from guaranteed! Rapidly growing crag traffic has become a potential issue. Please be upstanders and take good care of the crag to help preserve access. LEAVE NO TRACE! Don't leave your trash, and even pack out any trash somebody else might have left behind. Finally, some people have been exploring or hanging around on top of the cliff. Please do not climb above the anchors on roped climbs or hang out above the boulder problems. Being on the edge of the cliff without ropes is dangerous and the last thing we want is to have an ambulance/injury/fatality there. Being up top could also cause problems with the property owner. Please don't endanger crag access through short-sighted behavior!
Note that bats have been observed in a number of hand-sized cracks at the crag. Please be respectful and let them be. Bats face a number of threats and are important species to protect (They eat mosquitoes! 'Nough said!). If you'd like to help out, you can also report your sighting to Climbers for Bat Conservation. Click here for more information on climbers and bats.
Please do not park along the side of Marne road in front of the crag. See images below for where to park.
Also please don't walk in behind the sewage treatment plant to access the crag. There is a clear access trail directly off Marne Rd about 200 yards past the plant driveway as you walk weast along Marne Rd from the parking lot. Please stay on established trails.
Heading east from Newark on SR 16, turn left (north) onto Brownsville Rd. Immediately after turning off the highway, turn right onto Marne Rd. Go 2 miles, pass the sewage treatment plant, over a small bridge, to a T intersection. There is a parking lot for a park to the north east of the intersection (20 yards to the left, across the road). Please park here.
Walk back along Marne road toward the sewage treatment plant. The crag access trail is on your right (north) side, about 200 yds past the plant entrance. You can stash your gear first and drop off passengers as you drive by for an easier walk back if you are weak and infirm.
There is also a trail that goes directly to the bouldering area just to the right the oil tank on the far west side of the crag.
<img src="cdn2.apstatic.com/forum/130…; style="width: 300px;" class="fr-fil fr-dib" data-id="130846"><img src="cdn2.apstatic.com/forum/130…; style="width: 300px;" class="fr-fil fr-dib" data-id="130502">
Classic Climbing Routes at Marne Road
Days w Precip