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Routes in E. Poison Ivy Wall ("The Cave")
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Basket Case, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Born on the Fourth of July T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Broken Dreams S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Bush League S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Calf Ripper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Crackhead S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Crimps for Wimps S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Deep End, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Don't Break It if You Can't Buy It S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Final Exam, The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ivy League S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Jugs for Thugs S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Just Say No to Crack S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Landers Last Gander S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Leaves of Three S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Longaberger S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Major League S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Ninja Skill Called Trad S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Pistol Squat S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Reach for your Dreams S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Roofs for Goofs S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sink or Swim S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Twelfth 12, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Unfinished Business S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Wet Dreams S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
| Type: | Sport, 65 ft (20 m) |
| GPS: | 40.0692, -82.26208 |
| FA: | Jordan Katz, Jun '20 |
| Page Views: | 1,250 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Jordan Katz on Jun 16, 2020 · Updates |
| Admins: | Courtney Curtner, Ray Weber |
Access Issue: Private Property
Details
On the bouldering (west) side, please do not hang out up top or go exploring above the main cliff line. It is private property and we need to keep a low profile. The owner has been hands off so far. Let's try to ensure things stay that way please. Hanging out up top could cause problems with the property owner.
Please do not climb above the roped climbs. Hanging out on the edge of the cliff without ropes is dangerous and the last thing we want is to have an ambulance/injury/fatality there. Please don't endanger crag access through short-sighted behavior!
Please be upstanders and take good care of the crag to help preserve access. Don't leave your trash, and even pack out any trash somebody else might have left behind.
Description
For the true all-arounder! Starts off steep with jugs and big throws that will make sure the traddies work for their beer, and finishes up on a vertical but pretty featureless flaring crack that is guaranteed to befuddle your buddies who only know how to clip bolts.
Shares a start with Jugs for Thugs through the first three moves, then goes straight up (slightly left) on the vertical face above the roof, toward the huge flaring crack. Walk up the ramp and then stem/shimmy/butt-scum/jam/whatever your way up the flaring crack. Don't let you guard down until it's done.
Recommendation: Stick-clip the 2nd bolt of Jugs for Thugs to protect the start, and pre-hang the first draw on Wet Dreams. Climb to the lip, clip the first draw of Wet Dreams and then back-clean to minimize rope drag (easy to do from the last big jug at the lip).
Pretty quick to get wet and stay wet in winter and spring. Definitely best done in the late summer into early winter.
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