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Areas in Smoking Sections

Lower Smoking Section 6 / 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Upper Smoking Section 1 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Description

If you want a warm-up to the weekend, or donÂ’'t have the commitment for Sheeprock, check out the Smoking Section. This was a definite hot spot of the fire, hence the name. Almost a dozen short and scruffy one pitch outings are here, as well as a few hard slab and crack testpieces, such as Nooner.

Getting There

See the Sheeprock directions...

This little outcropping of routes, has a relatively short approach, that quite literally takes about one-cigarette's-time to get there from the car.

Quick'n'dirty route list

Lower Smoking Section:

The route list starts from right to left. First ascents were by Darren Mabe and various partners, 2004.

At the top of the cairned approach trail, locate an overhanging, right-facing, "shade" boulder and the obvious Nooner crack to the right.

  • **Nooner - 5.12. Next to tall burned limbless tree trunk is a short finger crack to bolted anchor. Pro: small gear, one bolt.
  • *Little Doohah - 5.6. Climb a slab above Nooner. Access it from the right up a ramp. Pro: a few bolts and pro for the timid.
  • *This Ain't Eldo - 5.11+. This ascends an angling arch and underclings and finishes with Nooner. TCUs, 2 bolts.

The following four routes all go to the same anchor at 110' with variations possible....

  • *Pink Lung - 9+ follows the pink bulge, turning the dark grey bulge. Bolts, a few small pieces.
  • **Carcinogen - 9 starts in crack system left of pink lung, up some slab and finshes with Pink or Nicotine. Pro: light SR, and bolts.
  • **Surgeon General - 5.10/11 all bolted direct start to finish on bulge of Nicotine.
  • ***Nicotine - 5.10 starts in angling handcrack, to finger crack, beelines to undercling bulge. Pro: SR and some bolts.

On the left side:

  • Smoker's Cough - 5.6 the wide right facing corner to bombay chimney, traversing to a stance with bolts (orange sling!?). Pro: SR, a few wide pieces. pretty damn-fun novelty pitch!
  • **Marlboro Man - 5.11+ follow the bolted arete and face left of Smoker's Cough. Tricky. 8 or 9 bolts.

Upper Smoking Section:

Up the hill to the left is a long sustained route called ***Emphysema, 5.10d/11a, and two pitch route called ***Sweet Cigarillo. Bring 70m or two ropes.

12 Total Climbs

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