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Routes in Kat's Tower

Kitty Litter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Elevation: 8,088 ft
GPS: 39.19, -105.334 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 246 total, 19/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 20, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

This is a small and free-standing tower with no non-technical ascent. The rock stands as one of 2 towers just down to the South/Southwest of the notch between Acid Rock and Sheep Rock, on the North side. These are passed on the lower side when approaching The Land that Time Forgot area on Sheep Rock.

Whilst several things could be said to describe this rock or an ascent of it, the most notable would be the quality of the rock. It is surrounded by a pile of coin-sized pebbles for a reason.

Adventure, not quality, is the only reason to get on this thing. The rock here is as poor as I have ever climbed. Only the nature of the features used and soft shoes made it possible. By pressing mostly directly on the surface and never allowing much shear, the surface held up for 2 ascents, though the pile of grains at the bottom grew to some degree for both climbers.

There is no anchor on top. A "saddle" of rounded rock allowed for a simul-rap-like descent as was planned.

1) Once on top, the leader unties and pulls rope all the way up until the second is "tight" as if on belay.

2) The leader throws one end of the rope to the ground on the side of the tower opposite the belayer.

3) The leader raps that loose end of rope, single-strand, to the ground with the follower for counter-mass.

4) The leader goes off rap and puts the follower on belay (noting the amount of rope out) then bringing the rope over the "saddle" of the rock as the top anchor.

5) The follower tops out and unties, pulling rope back up to the noted point and throwing the rope back to the ground on the climbed side then raps single strand with the former leader as a counter-mass (as if simul-rapping).

6) Once both are down, the leader pulls the rope over to the north and back to the ground which is the short way at this point. The rope runs smoothly, believe it or not.

Getting There

Approach as for Land that Time Forgot (N. Face of Sheep) or on the way down from the notch between Helen's Dome and Baby Helen, if coming down to the North side. There are 2 towers, 50-70 feet tall, depending on which and from what side you measure. The shorter one downhill would appear to be safe from any ascent, barring aid bolts, but the taller one uphill has been climbed from the East side, through a corner 'weakness' that one could get away with calling a dihedral. Well, at least if one could get away with calling whatever we did on it 'climbing.'

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