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Routes in Upper Smoking Section

American Spirit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bugler Arete S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Emphysema S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pipsqueak TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sweet Cigarillo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Zig-zag T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
bLaCk LuNg S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport, 230 ft, 2 pitches
FA: D. Mabe and A. Dembik, June 2010
Page Views: 581 total · 6/month
Shared By: Darren Mabe on Jun 14, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Sweet Cigarillo is a fun, classy, and moderate 2 pitch outing up the center of the Upper Smoking Section Formation.

P1. 5.8, 115'. Wander up the slab on friction climbing past some interesting features. Use some shoulder length slings on the bolts in the middle of the pitch to alleviate some of the drag. Pull on to a ledge with 2 bolt belay, 11 bolts.

P2. 5.6, 115'. EDIT 2018: the original FA traversed the roof with gear, but now the pitch climbs above the belay and up to the roof with only bolts. Mantel the roof, and romp up easy slabs past a few more bolts to 2 bolt belay on a ledge, 8 bolts.

Have a picnic at a grassy bench at the top.

Do two raps down with one 70m rope. Watch your ends!

Location

Start by a tree in the center of the formation. Scramble onto a flat perch from the left, just above the Pipsqueak slab.

Protection

About a dozen draws, including a couple long ones.

You can use one 70m rope!
pfwein
Boulder, CO
 
pfwein   Boulder, CO
 
The P2 anchor could use some work: it is 2 good bolts but had just a ratty sling through the bolt hangers (and a good quicklink as a masterpoint). We added a girth-hitched shoulder-length sling to each bolt, but quicklinks would be better on the bolt hangers, so the slings don't get torn. Probably quicklinks and chain (or just a couple links) would be the best long-term solution.
Edit: Never saw DMabe's comment until recently--I never made it back it shore up the anchors but glad someone else did Sep 18, 2016
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.8
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.8
Pfwein, I know of a good place you could get some quicklinks and chain. Thanks for volunteering!

EDIT 6/18: nevermind some anchor fairies got it taken care of for you Apr 22, 2018

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