Mountain Project Logo

Routes in North Howser Tower

All Along the Watchtower T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C2- R
Armageddon T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Dodging Deanna T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Eye of Providence T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Seventh Rifle, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c C1 PG13
Under Fire T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Young Warrior T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3
Unsorted Routes:

Description

North Howser Towers west face is the largest and most remote wall in the Bugaboo's. Standing 3000' tall it has been compared to the Cirque of the Unclimbables and Patagonia. All of the routes on it are serious undertakings requiring maximum commitment to reach the top.

Getting There

The main approach to North Howser is by the North Shoulder Col which is a long and gruelling ordeal. From the Kain hut and Applebee campground climb the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col and descend northwest down the Vowell Glacier until your beneath the north ridge. Continue along the glacier to the North Shoulder Col and descend west into the steep loose gully. A small glacier will be encountered beneath the northwest face which is best to skirt around on the right. Scramble down more scree and glacier traversing to the south until you are below the west face.

There is also another approach from East Creek Basin that is described in the guide. It says to take the ridge west from the bivy site about 100m until it is possible to cut right down a ledge and gully system to a terrace. From here make 3 or 4 double rope rappels to the glacier below. This is not supposed to have fixed anchors and is not well traveled according to the book.

7 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: North Howser Tower Change
Type:  to 
Quality: Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at North Howser Tower

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C2- R
All Along the Watchtower
Trad, Aid, Alpine 32 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
All Along the Watchtower 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C2- R Trad, Aid, Alpine 32 pitches
More Classic Climbs in North Howser Tower »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

gregybn  
I worked with Ward Robinson in the early 90's... by then, he had opted out of this kind of way-radical climbing in favor of his marriage and raising his family...but in his best days, he was a very modest and generally unrecognized Canadian climber of amazing talent and ability.
This route was one of his best.

A tale of bivy near the summit of NHT... my girlfriend and I were once coming down from a climb on SnowPatch and met a couple young bucks who had summited the West face and spent a VERY wild night on the summit - complete with multiple lightning hits.
They were burned and bedraggled... and lucky to be breathing.
The summit bivy was probably the crux of that climb??? Feb 18, 2008
Tortilla
Fakeville, USA
Tortilla   Fakeville, USA
The anchors are bolted. Much easier and safer than going down the glacier to the north. Nov 24, 2006

More About North Howser Tower

Printer-Friendly Guide
What's New

All Photos Within North Howser Tower (22)

Most Popular · Newest