GPS: 50.738, -116.826 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Steven Lucarelli on Oct 10, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford

Description

North Howser Towers west face is the largest and most remote wall in the Bugaboo's. Standing 3000' tall it has been compared to the Cirque of the Unclimbables and Patagonia. All of the routes on it are serious undertakings requiring maximum commitment to reach the top.

Getting There

The main approach to North Howser is by the North Shoulder Col which is a long and gruelling ordeal. From the Kain hut and Applebee campground climb the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col and descend northwest down the Vowell Glacier until your beneath the north ridge. Continue along the glacier to the North Shoulder Col and descend west into the steep loose gully. A small glacier will be encountered beneath the northwest face which is best to skirt around on the right. Scramble down more scree and glacier traversing to the south until you are below the west face.

There is also another approach from East Creek Basin that is described in the guide. It says to take the ridge west from the bivy site about 100m until it is possible to cut right down a ledge and gully system to a terrace. From here make 3 or 4 double rope rappels to the glacier below. This is not supposed to have fixed anchors and is not well traveled according to the book.

7 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at North Howser Tower

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C2- R
 6
All Along the Watchtower
Trad, Aid, Alpine 32 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
All Along the Watchtower
 6
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C2- R Trad, Aid, Alpine 32 pitches
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