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North Howser Tower Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in North Howser Tower

L › R R › L A › Z

	All Along the Watchtower T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C2- R
	Armageddon T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Dodging Deanna T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Eye of Providence T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Hey Kool-Aid! T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Seventh Rifle, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c C1 PG13
	Spicy Red Beans and Rice T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
	Under Fire T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Young Warrior T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3

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GPS:	50.73041, -116.81367 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Steven Lucarelli on Oct 10, 2006 · Updates
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See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: SNOWPATCH SPIRE ROCKFALL Details

BC Parks is aware of a rockfall incident that occurred on December 23, 2022 on the north end of Snowpatch Spire in Bugaboo Park. The natural occurring event triggered a significant deposit of rock into the glacial basin below, however no park facilities were impacted by the debris. The area involved is a popular recreation area during the operational season (July to September). With this in mind BC Parks has implemented a Closure Area (Travel Not Permitted – Section 17 (Park Act)) and a Rockfall Hazard Zone (Travel Not Recommended) in the localized incident area (February 1 – July 15, 2023) until more information becomes available.

Description

North Howser Towers west face is the largest and most remote wall in the Bugaboo's. Standing 3000' tall it has been compared to the Cirque of the Unclimbables and Patagonia. All of the routes on it are serious undertakings requiring maximum commitment to reach the top.

Getting There

The main approach to North Howser is by the North Shoulder Col which is a long and gruelling ordeal. From the Kain hut and Applebee campground climb the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col and descend northwest down the Vowell Glacier until your beneath the north ridge. Continue along the glacier to the North Shoulder Col and descend west into the steep loose gully. A small glacier will be encountered beneath the northwest face which is best to skirt around on the right. Scramble down more scree and glacier traversing to the south until you are below the west face.

There is also another approach from East Creek Basin that is described in the guide. It says to take the ridge west from the bivy site about 100m until it is possible to cut right down a ledge and gully system to a terrace. From here make 3 or 4 double rope rappels to the glacier below. This is not supposed to have fixed anchors and is not well traveled according to the book.