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Armageddon

Name: Armageddon
Rating: 4.0

5.12+ YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British

Routes in North Howser Tower

L › R R › L A › Z

	All Along the Watchtower T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C2- R
	Armageddon T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Dodging Deanna T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Eye of Providence T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Hey Kool-Aid! T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Seventh Rifle, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c C1 PG13
	Spicy Red Beans and Rice T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
	Under Fire T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Young Warrior T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3

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Type:	Trad, Alpine, 3500 ft (1061 m), 34 pitches
FA:	Jonny Copp & Mike Pennings, 1999. FFA Jesse Huey and Maury Birdwell (2016)
Page Views:	3,922 total · 37/month
Shared By:	MauryB on Sep 22, 2016
Admins:	Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: SNOWPATCH SPIRE ROCKFALL Details

BC Parks is aware of a rockfall incident that occurred on December 23, 2022 on the north end of Snowpatch Spire in Bugaboo Park. The natural occurring event triggered a significant deposit of rock into the glacial basin below, however no park facilities were impacted by the debris. The area involved is a popular recreation area during the operational season (July to September). With this in mind BC Parks has implemented a Closure Area (Travel Not Permitted – Section 17 (Park Act)) and a Rockfall Hazard Zone (Travel Not Recommended) in the localized incident area (February 1 – July 15, 2023) until more information becomes available.

Description

Originally established in a single push by Jonny Copp and Mike Pennings, their onsight effort yielded less than 10 meters of aid climbing! Armageddon tackles the massive, right facing corner just to the right of All Along the Watchtower. It is this feature that represents the routes 5-7 unique pitches connecting Watchtower to Warrior, then back to Watchtower.

Read about Jonny and Mike's FA here:

http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200022700/North-America-Canada-Northwest-and-Yukon-Territories-Bugaboos-North-Howser-Tower-Armageddon

Jesse Huey's writeup of the FFA here:

http://blog.arcteryx.com/fighting-armageddon-jesse-huey-and-maury-birdwell-in-the-bugaboos/

A few notes:

- We were able to climb the 13ish pitches to the bivy ledges in 5x70m pitches with barely any simuling.

- Take heed not to get sucked left out of the main corner system on the latter pitches of the lower half of Watchtower, a common mistake.

- The ultimate vision is to link both crux pitches into a single, mega 5.13 pitch. Bring some extra smallish gear/guns and get 'er done!

- We found no water on the route until some snow on the summit ridge.

Location

Start on All Along the Watchtower but where it branches left continue straight up into the huge, right facing corner straight above.
Descend the north face rappels, skiers left off the summit.