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Routes in North Howser Tower

All Along the Watchtower T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C2- R
Armageddon T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Dodging Deanna T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Eye of Providence T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Seventh Rifle, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c C1 PG13
Under Fire T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Young Warrior T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Alpine, 3500 ft, 34 pitches
FA: Jonny Copp & Mike Pennings, 1999. FFA Jesse Huey and Maury Birdwell (2016)
Page Views: 566 total, 40/month
Shared By: MauryB on Sep 22, 2016
Admins: Kate Lynn

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Description

Originally established in a single push by Jonny Copp and Mike Pennings, their onsight effort yielded only 4 meters of aid climbing! Armageddon tackles the massive, right facing corner just to the right of All Along the Watchtower. It is this feature that represents the routes 5-7 unique pitches connecting Watchtower to Warrior, then back to Watchtower.

Read about Jonny and Mike's FA here:
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200022700/North-America-Canada-Northwest-and-Yukon-Territories-Bugaboos-North-Howser-Tower-Armageddon

Jesse Huey's writeup of the FFA here:
http://blog.arcteryx.com/fighting-armageddon-jesse-huey-and-maury-birdwell-in-the-bugaboos/

A few notes:
- We were able to climb the 13ish pitches to the bivy ledges in 5x70m pitches with barely any simuling.
- Take heed not to get sucked left out of the main corner system on the latter pitches of the lower half of Watchtower, a common mistake.
- The ultimate vision is to link both crux pitches into a single, mega 5.13 pitch. Bring some extra smallish gear/guns and get 'er done!
- We found no water on the route until some snow on the summit ridge.

Location

Start on All Along the Watchtower but where it branches left continue straight up into the huge, right facing corner straight above.
Descend the north face rappels, skiers left off the summit.

Protection

Double rack to #2 camalot, 1x#3 & #4, extra fingers, stoppers and RPs. No pins!

Photos

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