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Armageddon
5.12+ YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 4 from 2
votes
Routes in North Howser Tower
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All Along the Watchtower T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C2- R |
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Armageddon T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Dodging Deanna T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Eye of Providence T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Hey Kool-Aid! T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Seventh Rifle, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c C1 PG13 |
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Spicy Red Beans and Rice T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Under Fire T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Young Warrior T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 |
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 3500 ft (1061 m), 34 pitches |
| GPS: | 50.73041, -116.81367 |
| FA: | Jonny Copp & Mike Pennings, 1999. FFA Jesse Huey and Maury Birdwell (2016) |
| Page Views: | 4,303 total · 35/month |
| Shared By: | MauryB on Sep 22, 2016 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Access Issue: SNOWPATCH SPIRE ROCKFALL
Details
Description
Originally established in a single push by Jonny Copp and Mike Pennings, their onsight effort yielded less than 10 meters of aid climbing! Armageddon tackles the massive, right facing corner just to the right of All Along the Watchtower. It is this feature that represents the routes 5-7 unique pitches connecting Watchtower to Warrior, then back to Watchtower.
*NB: on Jesse's handwritten topo after the crux where the route joins into Warrior it says "NO, OW!" and indicates to go right. Recently climbing another route into that finish we climbed the left OW splitter and found incredible, splitter, moderate climbing and highly recommend that way over the thinner, more poorly protected climbing in the right corner. No need for big gear, as there is intermittent small gear on the left wall.
Read about Jonny and Mike's FA here:
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200022700/North-America-Canada-Northwest-and-Yukon-Territories-Bugaboos-North-Howser-Tower-Armageddon
Jesse Huey's writeup of the FFA here:
http://blog.arcteryx.com/fighting-armageddon-jesse-huey-and-maury-birdwell-in-the-bugaboos/
A few notes:
- We were able to climb the 13ish pitches to the bivy ledges in 5x70m pitches with a bit of simuling.
- On the lower half of Watchtower, take heed not to get sucked left out of the main corner system on the latter pitches - a common mistake.
- In 2026 John Ebers and Kevin Rieck realized the ultimate vision is by linking both crux pitches into a single, mega 5.12d pitch. Bring some extra smallish gear/guns and get 'er done!
- We found no water on the route until some snow on the summit ridge. In late July 2026 there was a snow tongue feeding water that collapsed the day after our bivy (on a climber! resulting in a long line rescue). Seems that is the approx transition time for water availability at the bivy ledges.
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