The Magician Rock Climbing
|GPS:||36.109, -118.485 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
|Page Views:||25,221 total · 136/month|
|Shared By:||Josh Janes on Jun 18, 2006|
|Admins:||Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen|
It is home to the longest climb in the Needles, Magic Dragon, which checks in at about 12 pitches and 5.8. This climb, and a few variations, begins at the southern foot of the formation and follows the ridge all the way up to the North, finishing at the lookout tower.
A few shorter, interesting crack climbs ascend the lower west face.
There are also several, not often traveled, slab climbs (and other climbs which link discontinuous features) on the upper east face.
Descent is either back down the route you came up, or by hopping the guardrail of the tower and heading down the stairs. Remember to respect Marge's privacy by not visiting the tower before 9
AM or after 6 PM. If you finish your route after these hours, one can skip the final pitchs that breach the small headwall on top of which sits the tower by skirting around on a large ledge to the northwest. A rap station exists at the far northern end of the ledge, just below the tower itself.
Routes on the east face can be approached by heading around the north end of the Magician (as per the standard approach) and then dropping down to the south.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Magician
Days w Precip