Cookies on Sunday

Cookies on Sunday is a slab climb with great exposure. The second and third pitches feel like you're walking the plank - or swimming: pulling yourself along, staring at your feet, and trying not to notice the air below you as you traverse the edge of a steep wall. The final pitch is a stretch of immaculate, cruxy friction climbing. And of course, the summit is unbeatable and the descent is as easy as can be: Stairs!

Afternoon shade. Probably best for both leader and follower to be relatively unflappable.

Begin with a slippery scramble down the loose slope of pine needles and surfboard rocks between the Magician and Djin, closely hugging the east face of the Magician. Pass a large left facing flake (Poof), a 50’ tall pedestal, and continue around a little corner with a short downclimb to an obvious weakness. Scramble up this, avoiding a tree by way of a precarious large hollow flake (low 5th with big consequences) and belay on the right at a lone bolt 50’ off the ground.

P1 (5.10c, 80’): Trend slightly right climbing past 5 bolts and a #2 Camalot placement to a bolted anchor above a hollow flake.

P2 (5.10d, 90’): A rising traverse right along the edge of a steep wall past 7 bolts leads to a bolted anchor on a narrow ledge.

P3 (5.10a, 110’): Continue more easily to the right passing 4 bolts and optional small gear placements to a bolted anchor at a sloping stance.

P4 & 5 (5.10d, 520’): Slab upwards (crux) passing 4 bolts. After 60' and the fourth bolt, you'll join Sidewalk Magic (a mellow ramp system). We continued this pitch for the entire length of our 80 meter cord and then did a final 80 meter pitch to the top, but it might be better to break this up into shorter pitches.

Rack: 8x draws/slings and a #2 Camalot. Additional gear might be needed for the final easy (5.6) pitches of Sidewalk Magic.