Avg: 2.3 from 17 votes
|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches|
|FA:||H. & E. Laeger|
|Page Views:||2,892 total, 21/month|
|Shared By:||Matthew Fienup on Jul 25, 2006|
|Admins:||Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionA great introduction to the Needles--the airiness, exposure, and runouts typical to the area at an accessible grade. Don't believe the guidebook--3 pitches will not get you to the top.
P1 (5.6): Climb multiple, broken cracks in a shallow, left-facing corner. Belay from a ledge with a fir tree. [Take a few minutes to TR "Frustration with the Redhead" (5.11) directly below the tree.]
P2 (5.7+): Follow a short crack and flakes past a single bolt which is 30 feet out. Continue climbing the moderate face with questionable gear behind loose flakes--spooky. You are likely to encounter an unprotected 5.7/5.8 mantle to gain the belay ledge. Belay from a 1-foot ledge below the start of an arching overhang.
P3 (5.7+): Climb cracks up and left beneath a sweeping, arch (the smaller and higher of two arches on the east face of the Magician). At the far left side, as the overhang diminishes, step boldly up and follow a face and crack to a belay in an alcove.
P4 (easy): Step right until reaching a short, hand-sized crack that leads to the top of the Magician.
P5 (5.8): Climb a short offwidth to reach the Lookout. The 5.8 offwidth protects with a single 4" piece. Alternately, rappel from slings around a constriction on the west face.