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Routes in The Magician

Boulder under the house TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Frustration with the Redhead T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c X
Magic Dragon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Poof T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Under the house TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: Kris Solem?
Page Views: 229 total · 7/month
Shared By: Howard on Jun 23, 2015
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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A natural TR after p1 of Poof because the rope runs properly from the same tree anchor.
Paddle to the start, past a slick low-angle slab. Follow the line of bolts through thin edges on a nearly vertical face and then slabs up to the rap tree. (The tree is also 1st belay of Poof, the route to the left.)

After the bolts, pro is sparse to non-existent.

To the right of the bolt, you can make a huge, super balancey reach with feet on a rail and with hands on microcrimps (.11a (!) ) or you can traverse to left of the bolt to much more reasonable holds. At least one other variation exists - after reaching up to a black dish during the bolted cruxes, staying right and climbing prominent face holds before angling left to the tree is generally much easier than heading up from directly underneath the tree. Going direct from underneath the tree, the climbing stays a bit more sustained with a final slab crux.


4 bolts plus some thin gear in the right facing crack past the crux.


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G Frisby
Orange, CA
G Frisby   Orange, CA
Did this recently on TR (climbed the first pitch of Poof to the tree) with my pal Betsy, who is a redhead, which was part of the draw. We thought getting your feet off the rail (in other words, moving past the second bolt) was hard. Otherwise it was very fun climbing, with at least one sharp crimp and a few good sized knobs/lumps (none big enough to sling). At the tree you are treated to great views of the kern drainage and some of the other climbs in the area. Sep 26, 2015