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Routes in Lost Rock

Blowing Raspberries T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Clocks T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Don't Panic T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Escapist, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Fearless Leader S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
GV to VD T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gomer Pyle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Good Vibrations T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lost In A Lost World S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lost Souls T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
My...Nice Knobs You Have S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Right Leaning T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Safety in Numbers T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Salami Mami S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Skyline Arete T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown with Two Bolts T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unnamed Bulbous Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
V Dihedral T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Elevation: 7,500 ft
GPS: 39.997, -105.418 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 6,379 total, 45/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Jun 9, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac


Faces west, good afternoon sun and early morning shade. Various sport route, mixed, and three good trad climbs. Bring gear.


Lower tier, about 20' above river and 200' downstream of "10% grade" roadsign.
A. Fearless Leader, 11-, 1p, 50', bolts.
B. Gomer Pyle, 7, 1p, 160', gear.
C. Unnamed Bulbous Face, 8 or 9, 1p, 150' or 160', gear.

Upper tier up a gully left of L.

D. Skyline Arete, 8+, 1p, 70', gear.
E. V Dihedral, 8-, 1p, 70', gear.
FE. GV to VD, 8+, 1p, 75', gear.
F. Good Vibrations, 10-, 1p, 75', gear & bolts.
G. Blood Donor, 11, 1p, gear.
H. Right Leaning, 9, 1p, 80', gear.
I. Misanthrope, 10, 1p, bolts & gear.
KJ. Blowing Raspberries, 8+, 1p, 100', gear.
K. Lost Souls, 8, 1p, 100', bolts +/- gear.
L. Unknown with Two Bolts, 9+, 1p, 100', bolts & gear.

Center Face

M. ?No How, No Way?, 12-, 1p, 50', bolts.
N. The Escapist, 11-, 1p, 50', gear & bolt.
O. Safety in Numbers, 10, 1p, 40', gear.
P. My...Nice Knobs You Have, 10+, 1p, 40', bolts & gear.
Q. Don't Panic, 11- R, 1p, 50', gear.
R. Clocks, 11 PG-13, 1p, 50', gear & bolts.

Down and Right Face

S. ?Joe the Lunger?, 11, 1p, 40', bolts.
T. Salami Mami, 12-, 1p, 45', bolts.
U. Lost in a Lost World, 10+, 10p, 50', bolts.

Eds. It appears someone is deleting routes from the database. Please post to restore the database for the community.
Seasonal Closure Details

Getting There

Park one-eight of mile past the parking are for Animal World at a 10% grade sign on the creek side of the road.

For the upper areas:
Cross the creek at a boulder and then angle left up a short gully. Reach a saddle, and then continue going left on a ledge to the climbs.

For the lower routes:
From the "10% Grade" sign, walk downstream about 200' until you see the climbable-looking, west-facing rock that is very close to the river (about 20' vertical feet above it). Cross here to find Fearless Leader (left side), and Gomer Pyle (right side). Use the scree gully to the right of Gomer Pyle to access the other rocks in this area.

18 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lost Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lost In A Lost World
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Lost In A Lost World 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
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Nothing on this page really addresses how to find the upper-middle ("Center Face") group of routes (six 50-foot climbs that begin from the same ledge). On each occasion in which I've approached and descended from the upper-left group ("Upper Tier"), I was unable to see a trace of the upper-middle group. Yesterday, we were ready to give up. Then we spied a bolt....

On the big curve in the highway, about 1/8 mile upstream from Animal World parking, we parked at the large pullout on the east (stream-side) side of the highway. There is a short, well-used trail going down to the creek, reaching the best, shallowest place to cross. I don't remember if the "10% grade" sign is there; l wasn't looking for it, because I've been there many times.

One way is to approach the upper-middle group is to approach the upper-left group. After crossing the creek, bushwhack in the downstream direction, past a low-level rock outcrop, eventually reaching a heavily vegetated slope before the big outcrop that holds the lower-left ("Lower Tier") group of climbs. Ascend to the right, up the vegetated slope, which narrows into a gully. Where this gully hits rock, steepens and narrows, an obvious gully branches left (north) and ascends along the base of the upper-left group of climbs. There is no "saddle."

Instead of heading north, bushwhack right (south), to a ledge that appears to go nowhere. Look up as you begin traversing the ledge, and you may see a bolt about 40 feet up. Keep traversing the ledge right, to its end in a slope. Move up and left onto a big sloping ledge. Traverse it north to the base of the upper-middle group. Three of these routes have bolts. The leftmost route begins a bit lower. This ledge is at the same elevation as the ledge where begin the highest routes of the upper-left group.

We descended to the south and down to the creek. This way would provide a more direct and less shrub- and boulder-infested approach to the upper-middle group.

BTW, the "Lower Tier," which includes Gomer Pyle, is far downstream from "Down and Right Face," which includes Salami Mami. Aug 17, 2015

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