Type: Trad, Sport, 50 ft
FA: Greg Hand?
Page Views: 151 total · 1/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Aug 2, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This is a cruxy slab climb with a long reach. The crux is around the 2nd bolt with a deadpoint or lunge that may frustrate the vertically challenged. The grade eases up afterwards, but the lichen keeps you on edge.

Location

It is the rightmost of 6 climbs off this ledge system. It is just to the right of Don't Panic.

Protection

A couple cams, 3 bolts, and a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Jason Haas
G1 Climbing + Fitness
5.10c
Jason Haas   G1 Climbing + Fitness
5.10c
I felt the crux was getting a biner on the second bolt. That was a lot bigger of a reach for me than the hold Leo references as a deadpoint/lunge, which at 6'0" and 0 wingspan, I could hit comfortably statically. I also found the route to be no more difficult than Nice Knobs. Again, I'm tall enough to do the move. If you're say 5'6" or something, it might feel even a number grade harder. I don't understand where the PG-13 rating comes from - felt very safe to me (other than trying to reach that second clip). Sep 23, 2018