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Routes in Lost Rock

Blowing Raspberries T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Clocks T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Don't Panic T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Escapist, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Fearless Leader S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
GV to VD T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gomer Pyle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Good Vibrations T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lost In A Lost World S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lost Souls T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
My...Nice Knobs You Have S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Right Leaning T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Safety in Numbers T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Salami Mami S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Skyline Arete T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown with Two Bolts T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unnamed Bulbous Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
V Dihedral T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: ¡Team Feckin' Excellent!
Page Views: 198 total, 2/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Aug 22, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is the clean face immediately left of Lost in a Lost World, on the lower right tier of Lost Rock (basically, straight uphill from where you cross the creek, at the big boulder). It climbs seams and horizontals, passing five black-hangered bolts to anchors up and over the ledge. Please leave the lowering biners on the quicklinks; if you take them and lower through the quicklinks, then rope spaghetti will be your karmic reward. Also, step carefully around the little bansai tree passing the last bolt—let it be, let it do its thing.

This is a fine, little, face climb with a couple of bouldery sequences in the middle. For full value, don't stem left off the back ramp at the third bolt. Hell, even if you do, you still have to step back on and pull a crux.

Location

Just left of Lost in a Lost World on the lower-right tier of Lost Rock. To approach: park in the big pullout on the left just past the Boulderado/Animal World parking, where the road has the passing lane.

Cross the creek (boulder-hop or wade) at the big boulder, then basically head straight uphill in a little gully till you have to step up and right (easy fifth class; 10 feet) to get on a nice, broad grassy ledge.

This is the middle of the three routes. Five-minute approach, shade till 2 in summer.

Protection

Five bolts to double-bolt anchors.

Photos

Pinklebear  
 
It was probably 12b/c or 12c all along -- I just sandbagged it. The crux is hard even if you take the rest. Bummer about the anchor hardware. I'll replace this summer with quicklinks and chain or something. Why anyone would steal it is beyond me. Climbers.... Mar 26, 2017
Couldn't figure out a way to get past the 3rd bolt without going over into the gully with my left foot. It's a long ways up to the next holds, and the horizontal is at shoulder height, kind of a high step for 12-. What was I missing?

FWIW - the anchor hardware is gone except for the bolts and hangers. It may be possible to utilize the anchors on the route to the right, but that would be difficult. Mar 22, 2017