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South Pillar Rock Climbing
Routes in South Pillar
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Black Rain S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Jungle of Stone T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sleeping Beauty Girdle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Water Spirit T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Elevation: | 7,607 ft |
| GPS: | 39.996, -105.416 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 2,771 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Ron Olsen on Mar 29, 2006 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update
Details
2018 update: as of April 6, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are OPEN. Eagle Rock remains closed.
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Description
The South Pillar is on the far left side of Sleeping Beauty. There are one pure sport routes here (Black Rain); the rest of the routes require gear. All routes have two-bolt anchors at the top.
Eds. for the purposes of better organization, we'll separate the climbs that go onto the main wall, right of the obvious gully onto the Main Wall page.
L->R:
A1. Jungle of Stone, 9, 1p, 115', gear & bolts. RFC to roof.
A2. Sleeping Beauty Girdle, 3p, 420', gear & bolts. Start on A & traverse R across cliff.
B. Black Rain, 10, 1p, 115', bolts. Black water streak.
C. Water Spirit, 10, 1p, 90', gear & bolts. Crack through black roof.
Eds. for the purposes of better organization, we'll separate the climbs that go onto the main wall, right of the obvious gully onto the Main Wall page.
L->R:
A1. Jungle of Stone, 9, 1p, 115', gear & bolts. RFC to roof.
A2. Sleeping Beauty Girdle, 3p, 420', gear & bolts. Start on A & traverse R across cliff.
B. Black Rain, 10, 1p, 115', bolts. Black water streak.
C. Water Spirit, 10, 1p, 90', gear & bolts. Crack through black roof.
Getting There
Hike the trail along the base of Sleeping Beauty to a series of vegetated ledges on the left side. After the scramble up to the left edge of Ledge 2, walk left a short distance and step up onto some blocks. Cut back right past the right side of a horizontal dead tree to a nice alcove with a large tree.
Look for a right-facing corner with a nice hand crack that leads to a small bulge/roof with a single bolt at the start. This is Jungle of Stone. To the right of this corner is a dark black streak on a slab with bolts (Black Rain 10b).
Look for a right-facing corner with a nice hand crack that leads to a small bulge/roof with a single bolt at the start. This is Jungle of Stone. To the right of this corner is a dark black streak on a slab with bolts (Black Rain 10b).
Classic Climbing Routes at South Pillar
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Fort Collins, CO