Elevation: 7,607 ft
GPS: 39.996, -105.416 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 3,726 total · 22/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Mar 29, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / Update Details

Description

The South Pillar is on the far left side of Sleeping Beauty. There are one pure sport routes here (Black Rain); the rest of the routes require gear. All routes have two-bolt anchors at the top.

Eds. for the purposes of better organization, we'll separate the climbs that go onto the main wall, right of the obvious gully onto the Main Wall page.

L->R:

A1. Jungle of Stone, 9, 1p, 115', gear & bolts. RFC to roof.
A2. Sleeping Beauty Girdle, 3p, 420', gear & bolts. Start on A & traverse R across cliff.
B. Black Rain, 10, 1p, 115', bolts. Black water streak.
C. Water Spirit, 10, 1p, 90', gear & bolts. Crack through black roof.

Getting There

Hike the trail along the base of Sleeping Beauty to a series of vegetated ledges on the left side. After the scramble up to the left edge of Ledge 2, walk left a short distance and step up onto some blocks. Cut back right past the right side of a horizontal dead tree to a nice alcove with a large tree.

Look for a right-facing corner with a nice hand crack that leads to a small bulge/roof with a single bolt at the start. This is Jungle of Stone. To the right of this corner is a dark black streak on a slab with bolts (Black Rain 10b).

4 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at South Pillar

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 30
Black Rain
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Black Rain
 30
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
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