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Routes in South Pillar

Black Rain S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jungle of Stone T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sleeping Beauty Girdle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Water Spirit T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 115 ft
FA: Richard Rossiter, Leah Macaluso, Raoul Rossiter, 1998
Page Views: 1,251 total, 7/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Sep 25, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


32 Opinions

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Black Rain is just to the right of Jungle of Stone , and shares the first bolt with that route. It follows a prominent black water streak.

Approach: From the upper end of the parking area across from the Boulderado, find some large boulders that practically span the creek. There is a large tree stump on the opposite side of the creek by these boulders. Wade the creek (or walk across the boulders in the fall) to the tree stump, and find a trail angling right up the talus, heading toward the Beer Can. Near the top of this trail, take a fork heading left toward Sleeping Beauty. Follow this trail downstream, below Sleeping Beauty, as far as you can, then zig-zag up a series of vegetated ledges, aiming for the leftmost area of climbable rock on Sleeping Beauty. You will eventually scramble up right to reach a ledge with three routes: Jungle of Stone (a right-facing corner capped by a roof), Black Rain (a black water streak just to the right of Jungle of Stone ), and Water Spirit (a three-inch crack 40' right of Black Rain).

Begin behind a large pine tree close to the rock. Climb up 10' by mossy rock to the first bolt. Angle up right, heading for the black water streak. Follow the line of bolts up the water streak, with a 5.9 move at the third bolt and a 10b crux between the 5th and 6th bolts. Continue up to a small tree, and finish on a 5.8 slab with 3 more bolts to the anchor. The final slab and the anchor are shared with Jungle of Stone. Belay from a good ledge at the anchor. The climbing route is 130' long.

Rappel 110' with two ropes, or one 70m rope, back to the start. It may be possible to rappel with one 60m rope if you angle the rappel to higher ground on the right.

Two stars for sustained, interesting climbing.

Protection

12 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
First trip up to Sleeping Beauty. This route was pretty fun with a good amount of 5.9 slab on it. Careful pulling your ropes as they could get hung up in the trees. Jun 26, 2013
Did this route yesterday with Joe Chorny. The upper crux is between the 6th and 7th bolts and is a little spicy as you make the hardest move with the bolt 2-3 ft below your feet. It almost felt like it was bolted on lead. At least you are going for a good foot and hand to clip from. With a 70 m rope one can lower back to the start with a few feet to spare. The length was given as 130 ft but it must be closer to 115-120 ft. Sep 28, 2008
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
60m rope? Better have a long-ish one. 70m for comfort. Nice long pitch, but you have to like smearing to enjoy it. I did, but some don't. Jul 18, 2008
Richard Radcliffe
Louisville, CO
  5.9+
Richard Radcliffe   Louisville, CO
  5.9+
Indeed, you can rappel with a 60m cord, but if you rap straight down from the anchors to where the climb begins, you'll have to down-climb from just above the first bolt. Be sure to knot the ends of your rope! Jul 16, 2008
pfwein
Boulder, CO
 
pfwein   Boulder, CO
 
Can rappel with one 60m rope; don't need to do anything tricky, but knot the ends. Jun 17, 2007
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
There is a 5.7 layback about 5' above the 6th bolt; you can place a pink tricam and/or a blue/green hybrid Alien to protect this move if you want. Aug 17, 2005
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
The climb seemed easier than when I did it last fall. I'd almost say 9+, but I'll leave it at 10a for now. Delicate step-up moves at the third and fourth bolts, and a short layback between the fifth and sixth bolts were the hardest parts. An undercling up a ramp at the second bolt was the most fun.

You can rappel back to the start with a 70m rope with about five feet of rope to spare. Sep 12, 2004
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10a
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
  5.10a
Our party thought the crux was lower down, at the 3rd and 4th bolts, but agree there is one tricky move higher. The upper part is much easier than it looks from below. Sep 10, 2004