Avg: 1 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 90 ft (27 m)|
|FA:||Richard Rossiter, Serena Benson, 1998|
|Page Views:||402 total · 2/month|
|Shared By:||Ivan Rezucha on Sep 8, 2004|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Per Katherine Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a five month closure to protect nesting golden eagles, the Roosevelt National Forest has reopened Eagle Rock climbing area in Boulder Canyon.
“The Boulder Canyon eagles successfully raised one strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha with the USDA Forest Service. “Two chicks hatched initially, but unfortunately only one survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Post-fledging visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the second chick, but cooperation by climbers with the closures are crucial to the eagles’ success each season.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nesting site. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made unused areas reopened in April.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk in Boulder Canyon. These areas are located along Colorado Highway 119, approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls.
Effective through July 31, 2020, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral and Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, and wildlife professionals under an agreement with the Forest Service enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest and the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, and the public. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec…
(click on Boulder Canyon for more info).
Starting 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and all activities until 7/31/2020. This was confirmed with Matt Henry, Recreation Program Manager, Forest Service.
From K. Armstrong, FS Public Affairs, firstname.lastname@example.org, 970-222-7607: starting 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giviSee - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
As for rating, Rossiter calls this 10d on his site, but I think there are harder 9+ and 10a trad climbs in Boulder Canyon. Water Spirit felt a bit harder than the nearby Kama Sutra, also a hand crack through a roof, which I rated 10a. That rating for Kama Sutra was confirmed by another party that climbed it the same day I did (accidentally, thinking Kama Sutra was Crack of Dawn). Water Spirit is a bit less straightforward. So I'm calling it 10b for now, trad rating.
Start: Water Spirit climbs the "Left Pillar" as does Jungle of Stone and Black Rain. After the scramble up to the left edge of Ledge 2, walk left a short distance and step up onto some blocks. Cut back right past the right side of a horizontal dead tree to a nice alcove with a large tree. This is the start of Jungle of Stone and Black Rain. Walk right on the ledge to the base of black roof with a hand crack and right facing corner through the roof.
The climb: The roof is in black rock and very ugly, but the climbing is better than it looks. The crux roof moves can be toproped with excellent high cams. You can climb up, place the gear, and downclimb, and leave the rest of your bigger cams on the ground. The roof can be climbed at least two ways: with a high step to the lip or straight on. If you climb it straight on, you may need to fist jam. Excellent buckets await you after the roof move.
After the roof, the climbing is 5.9 in a few places but mostly easier. Step left, leaving a piece to protect the second, then climb a thin crack just left of a small, bushy, left-facing corner. This leads to a ledge and another thin crack that continues up into the left side of the gully that separates Left Pillar from the main wall. Continue up the thin crack, stemming when you can, until it runs out. At one point here, my right foot slipped on some grass and I fell, but I stopped myself when my right foot hit a small ledge. So it's still an onsight, right? As long as you don't weight the rope? Step left around the arête onto the dirty slab at the first bolt. The slab gets cleaner above. Pass a tiny tree and climb the easy slab staying at the right edge past 2 more widely spaced bolts. You can place one or two pieces of gear. The climbing is easy, so the bolt spacing should not be a problem. Step left at the top to the anchors.