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Routes in Physical Crag

Bacon Bits T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bacon and Ergs T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Crown Joules T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Dyne and Dash T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
EarthQuark T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Ergonomics T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fission Chips T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Ohm on the Range T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Pole Vault T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Watts For Dinner T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Watts Left Over T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Description

Physical Crag is one of the High and Lonely crags West from Eldorado Canyon. The rock is mostly solid, but more course and rough than the typical Eldo rock, it might not hold small gear as well, and is more lichenous for lack of popular travel. The benefits of this crag are that you will no doubt be there all alone, should you decide to endure the hour long journey there. A pleasant hike in all though.

The crag faces predominantly West by Southwest and gets afternoon sun everywhere, and earlier sun on some of the rock. The climbs are primarily face climbing and are typically hard and runout.

Physical Crag has two tiers, the lower left and upper right. One can approach the base of either via a gully from each respective side or a little bit of scrambling.

The climbs there are typically short, with interesting moves and reasonably fun sequences. All of the routes I have done there have had short cruxes. Some do not protect well, however. While they are certainly nice, the climbs of this crag alone do not make it a destination, unless the bizarre and unique Bacon and Ergs (5.11b) is up your alley, or you just want to be alone.

Nice routes- Pole Vault (9+) will be nice if someone takes the time to give it a little brushing. Bacon and Ergs (11b/c) is a classic for what it is, a radical overhang with a 7-12" crack through it housing bizarre jugs and chockstones on which to progress and protect. Crown Joules (11b/c) is also really cool, but insecure and a power mongers delight. Take brass nuts!

The gear placements for the belays up top of the upper tier are good for a few routes and non-existent on others. For the lower tier it is mostly on large pine trees a distance back from the edge. Some of these are inhabited by ants, albeit the small black, non-aggressive kind. Plan carefully. The standard descent is to scramble off down a gully or if up top, off of the back and pick your way back around. Better yet, the top anchor for Crown Joules has great knots and a bomber thread, all just replaced. Rap form that anchor to descend the upper tier. The raps to the lower tier need to be reset- take some webbing & a few rings.

The Crag appears to be out of the state park and on The Boulder County Mountain Park and is thus subject to their rules and regs.
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Getting There

According to Rossiter's book, and other resources (like CB.com's description to reach Split Block, a sub-crag just 100 yards away), one reaches the area by following the Eldorado Canyon Trail to directly below this, then coming up the hog-back to it. I, for one, find it easier to approach via the Veil (see thet rock) then trapse over talus 400 yards west to this Crag.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Physical Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
I looked at that a few years ago and made the same ascertation, but it looked a bit dirty and I didn't have a brush with me, so I didn't do it and I have not been back since. Did you free it? If so, congrats on the probable FFA. You might try writing to Steve Levin, who has been researching a lot of Eldo routes and history lately. He's probably your best bet.
Otherwise, you can short-cut the whole post here that you did and name it and someone will argue with you that Derek must have done it years ago... (snicker) Apr 18, 2007
Sam Benedict
Denver, CO
Sam Benedict   Denver, CO
So some hommies and I were up here last Sunday with the intention of climbing Bacon and Eggs but decided that we lacked the proper pro. In effort to quench our thirst for the wideness we hopped on another wide one just to the right of Bacon and Eggs. It is left-leaning and slightly overhanging for about 25 feet up to a mild top out. It was filled with lichen which made for a very uncomfortable lead attempt. We didn't see it in the guide book or on this site. Does anyone know anything about this little devil? It seems unlikely that no one has ever climbed this thing before, but it didn't look like it had been touched in years. Just Curious. Apr 18, 2007

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