Physical Crag Rock Climbing
|GPS:||39.932, -105.281 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Tony B on Jul 5, 2004|
Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
History (Admin Only): Leo Paik edited "Getting There" May 26, 2020
Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
For more information visit:
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
The crag faces predominantly West by Southwest and gets afternoon sun everywhere, and earlier sun on some of the rock. The climbs are primarily face climbing and are typically hard and runout.
Physical Crag has two tiers, the lower left and upper right. One can approach the base of either via a gully from each respective side or a little bit of scrambling.
The climbs there are typically short, with interesting moves and reasonably fun sequences. All of the routes I have done there have had short cruxes. Some do not protect well, however. While they are certainly nice, the climbs of this crag alone do not make it a destination, unless the bizarre and unique Bacon and Ergs (5.11b) is up your alley, or you just want to be alone.
Nice routes- Pole Vault (9+) will be nice if someone takes the time to give it a little brushing. Bacon and Ergs (11b/c) is a classic for what it is, a radical overhang with a 7-12" crack through it housing bizarre jugs and chockstones on which to progress and protect. Crown Joules (11b/c) is also really cool, but insecure and a power mongers delight. Take brass nuts!
The gear placements for the belays up top of the upper tier are good for a few routes and non-existent on others. For the lower tier it is mostly on large pine trees a distance back from the edge. Some of these are inhabited by ants, albeit the small black, non-aggressive kind. Plan carefully. The standard descent is to scramble off down a gully or if up top, off of the back and pick your way back around. Better yet, the top anchor for Crown Joules has great knots and a bomber thread, all just replaced. Rap form that anchor to descend the upper tier. The raps to the lower tier need to be reset- take some webbing & a few rings.
The Crag appears to be out of the state park and on The Boulder County Mountain Park and is thus subject to their rules and regs.
Per Tony Bubb: Physical Crag is not within the Eldorado Canyon SP. Thus, it is not under the state park jurisdiction.
Classic Climbing Routes at Physical Crag
Days w Precip