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Physical Crag Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map This is our best guess at this area's location.
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Routes in Physical Crag

L › R R › L A › Z

	Bacon and Ergs T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	Bacon Bits T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Crown Joules T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
	Dyne and Dash T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
	EarthQuark T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Ergonomics T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Fission Chips T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
	Ohm on the Range T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Pole Vault T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Watts For Dinner T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Watts Left Over T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

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GPS:	39.9318, -105.2813 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Tony B on Jul 5, 2004
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted Details

Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.

Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.

Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.

These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.

Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.

See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.

Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Description

Physical Crag is one of the High and Lonely crags West from Eldorado Canyon. The rock is mostly solid, but more course and rough than the typical Eldo rock, it might not hold small gear as well, and is more lichenous for lack of popular travel. The benefits of this crag are that you will no doubt be there all alone, should you decide to endure the hour long journey there. A pleasant hike in all though.

The crag faces predominantly West by Southwest and gets afternoon sun everywhere, and earlier sun on some of the rock. The climbs are primarily face climbing and are typically hard and runout.

Physical Crag has two tiers, the lower left and upper right. One can approach the base of either via a gully from each respective side or a little bit of scrambling.

The climbs there are typically short, with interesting moves and reasonably fun sequences. All of the routes I have done there have had short cruxes. Some do not protect well, however. While they are certainly nice, the climbs of this crag alone do not make it a destination, unless the bizarre and unique Bacon and Ergs (5.11b) is up your alley, or you just want to be alone.

Nice routes- Pole Vault (9+) will be nice if someone takes the time to give it a little brushing. Bacon and Ergs (11b/c) is a classic for what it is, a radical overhang with a 7-12" crack through it housing bizarre jugs and chockstones on which to progress and protect. Crown Joules (11b/c) is also really cool, but insecure and a power mongers delight. Take brass nuts!

The gear placements for the belays up top of the upper tier are good for a few routes and non-existent on others. For the lower tier it is mostly on large pine trees a distance back from the edge. Some of these are inhabited by ants, albeit the small black, non-aggressive kind. Plan carefully. The standard descent is to scramble off down a gully or if up top, off of the back and pick your way back around. Better yet, the top anchor for Crown Joules has great knots and a bomber thread, all just replaced. Rap form that anchor to descend the upper tier. The raps to the lower tier need to be reset- take some webbing & a few rings.

The Crag appears to be out of the state park and on The Boulder County Mountain Park and is thus subject to their rules and regs.

Getting There

According to Rossiter's book, and other resources (like CB.com's description to reach Split Block, a sub-crag just 100 yards away), one reaches the area by following the Eldorado Canyon Trail to directly below this, then coming up the hog-back to it. I, for one, find it easier to approach via the Veil (see thet rock) then trapse over talus 400 yards west to this crag.

Per Tony Bubb: Physical Crag is not within the Eldorado Canyon SP. Thus, it is not under the state park jurisdiction.