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Routes in Physical Crag

Bacon Bits T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bacon and Ergs T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Crown Joules T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Dyne and Dash T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
EarthQuark T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Ergonomics T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fission Chips T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Ohm on the Range T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Pole Vault T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Watts For Dinner T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Watts Left Over T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Alec Sharp, 1981(?)
Page Views: 590 total, 4/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jul 2, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route also lies on the upper right hand side of Physical Crag. To locate it, first find the impressive OW, Bacon and Ergs. To the left, perhaps 10-15 meters further there is a small, overhanging, shallow, left-facing corner system that starts with a wide slot for a meter, then sewn-up closed to RP crack. From the ground the crack appears to be unprotectable, but as it turns out, it would probably take two VERY GOOD small nuts. These would protect the awkward and thin, powerful crux. Climb up this and transition to a straight in crack just as the angle relaxes to vertical, and then proceed upward for 8 more meters of open book climbing in a left-facing system, protected on thin nuts again. Rap from the anchor.

Protection

Either TR it from the newly replaced webbing anchor (totally solid) or lead it.

The lead should probably include a standard set of stoppers and TCUs plus a wide cam for the initial slot and a few brass nuts for the crux. Gear placements will probably be strenuous.

Photos

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