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Routes in Physical Crag

Bacon Bits T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bacon and Ergs T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Crown Joules T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Dyne and Dash T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
EarthQuark T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Ergonomics T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fission Chips T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Ohm on the Range T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Pole Vault T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Watts For Dinner T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Watts Left Over T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Alec Sharp, 1981(?)
Page Views: 333 total, 2/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jul 2, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route also lies on left-hand end of the upper right hand side of Physical Crag. To locate it first find the impressive OW, Bacon and Ergs. Walk to the left 20 or 25 meters and around to a large left-facing dihedral. An old dead tree leans against the wall to the right of this corner. Climb the face on the right and sew up the crack with small nuts if possible -the rock here is not as dense as typical eldo stone and a long fall might break the edge of the crack and set your gear loose. Climb up and as the dihedral hits a narrow point, place a large cam (#3 Camalot was good) to protect the last hard move. Continue to the top & belay West of the top of the line from a few good tricams or stoppers in a crack at the back of a big boulder.

TO descend, walk across the crag to the anchors above Crown Joules and rap off. These are below the summit and although easy to get to, might be a little difficult to find.

A good brushing of lichen would probably add to the quality of the route.

Protection

Small nuts and a few small cams plus a #1 and #3 or #3.5 Camalot. The gear is a little hard to get in good at the start and the crux might be the low-ball ankle twister. The climb is safe as you go higher.

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