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Routes in Physical Crag

Bacon Bits T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bacon and Ergs T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Crown Joules T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Dyne and Dash T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
EarthQuark T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Ergonomics T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fission Chips T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Ohm on the Range T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Pole Vault T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Watts For Dinner T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Watts Left Over T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: C. Fitch & A. Sharpe, 1980
Page Views: 274 total · 2/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jul 2, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route lies just right of Pole Vault, and starts in a shallow, left-facing dihedral. Work up this system for 40 feet on stoppers and TCUs, reaching a very small ledge (good rest) at a solidly attached, but decaying flake. Place a wide piece under the flake, or a few small cams in cracks behind it with long slings, and then follow one of two paths, both 5.10, both S. 1) Go up under the flake and cut left to the arete, breaking out left to the NW face on the arete and eventually up over to the top of Pole Vaulter 2) mantle the flake and continue up the rock as the angle eases to below vertical. Either way, a fall after the flake would not be trivial.Belay up above as for Pole Vault.

Protection

A set of nuts and a set of cams. One large piece could be useful up toward the top.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
Agreed with Ivan, the way we did it is not the way Rositer describes the route and skips the 10b/c crux described by Rositer in the Eldo book. However, the way I did it, cutting direct left from where the picture was taken is still 5.10 and as you turn the corner, is still S. Watch out. Ivan's line (different than mine) might have been the best, mounting the flake and then cutting left. Jul 12, 2004
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
After re-reading Rossiter, I believe the way we climbed this (as described by Tony above) misses the 10b/c S crux. See the first photo below. Tony climbed to the flake above him in the photo and then went left around the arete. I followed by laybacking to the top of the flake and then going left (to retrieve gear), but continuing straight up would have been easy.

I believe the route actually traverses right from below the flake along a ramp and then makes a crux (according to Rossiter) move onto the upper slab. From above I could see a nice-looking thin crack in the upper slab that is likely the top of the route. Jul 11, 2004