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Keyhole Rock Rock Climbing
| Elevation: | 6,373 ft | 1,942 m |
| GPS: |
38.8788, -104.86996 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 30,853 total · 122/month | |
| Shared By: | Brian T. Wandzilak on Dec 3, 2003 | |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2024 Seasonal Closures - these are the same as 2023
Details
Previously per B. Tennis: all seasonal rock climbing closures in Garden of the Gods have been lifted for the season.
In 2023, they were the same as for 2022 and 2021.
Kindergarten/Gray Rock
North Gateway
Old info:
Previously: per Bret Tennis, as of 10/19/22: The Garden of the Gods has lifted all the seasonal rock climbing closures. Prior in 2020: seasonal raptor closures for 2020 were now lifted.
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
Closures as of June 5, 2019:
The Northern end of North Gateway Rock is closed for raptor nesting.
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.
Access Issue: 2022 seasonal raptor closure info
Details
The seasonal closures will be the same as in 2018-2021.
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant/Keyhole Rock & its various faces:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
From Larry, Colo Spgs City Staff (719-219-0108):
New seasonal climbing closure as of June 5, 2019:
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
New as of 2018: this formation is closed to climbing due to rock quality issues and wildlife concerns. The impact on brown bats, great horned owls, red tail hawks, and Cooper's hawks have resulted in this formation, the West face of Kindergarten Rock (aka Grey Rock), and the area between to be closed for all human uses including hiking and climbing. This information was from Bret Tennis, Garden of the Gods Park Operations Administrator.
Description
New as of 2018: this ENTIRE formation is closed to climbing due to rock quality issues and wildlife concerns. The impact on brown bats, great horned owls, red tail hawks, and Cooper's hawks have resulted in this formation, part of the West face of Kindergarten Rock (aka Grey Rock), and the area between to be closed for all human uses including hiking and climbing. This information was from Bret Tennis, Garden of the Gods Park Operations Administrator.
Keyhole Rock is the fourth of the major climbable formations at the Garden. Most of the climbing tends to be on the east face of the rock (i.e. good morning sun in the winter, nice shade in the afternoons and evenings in the summer). There are routes on the west face, but from what I hear, they are not worth the effort. Routes range in difficulty from loose 5.6 to solid 5.12. I recommend looking at the D'Antonio or Geiman guidebooks first, because some of the routes are extremely unprotected and could result in major falls. That being said, the majority of the routes are relatively short and bolt/pin/piton protected.
The descents tend to be walkoffs on ramps. There are anchors on top of the formation available for rappels.
It is a great place to go if you want to escape the crowds of the central areas of the park and get on some other solid routes.
Addendum: this crag has been reorganized closer to the excellent Rolofson guidebook, Soft Touch III.
Getting There
1) (Recommended if you are doing other climbs in the park) Park at the main Garden lot. Hike through the park, past Montezuma's Tower. Look for a major trail heading south, starting just south of the tower. Hike past Easter Rock (smaller formation that isn't worth the time), down to the right of a small rib. Keyhole rock is the large formation to your right.
2) (Recommended for climbs on the north end of the rock) Park at a pullout/parking area just past the intersection of Juniper Way Loop and Garden Drive. Take a trail to the east up the hill. Keyhole rock is the large formation closest to you.
3) (Recommended for climbs on the south end of the formation) Follow Juniper Way Loop around to the south Garden lot. Hike along the road, down the hill, to an obvious trail heading west just past the base of Grey Rock. Hike/bushwack your way to Keyhole Rock.
CAUTION: When parking in the south lot, be sure to conceal any valuables. There was a rash of break ins last winter that resulted in lots of gear and possessions being swiped.
All chalk and chalk substitutes are not allowed!
The Park staff want to remind the climbing community that all chalk (calcium carbonate) and chalk substitutes are prohibited in the park due to visual impact starting in 2021.
When placing closure signange/notifications, our park rangers noted chalk stains on several routes in the closure area (Anaconda and Grapefruit Dance), as well as the Blowouts bouldering area (which were cleaned last year, meaning all the chalk here is new). We are again hoping that the community can come together and address this issue before it requires any action on our part. Access may come into play! We'd also like to thank the PPCA for their efforts to remove chalk stains in these areas last year and hope that local climbers might consider helping them remove chalk stains from the rock this season- check their website for more info on upcoming events- pikespeakclimbersalliance.o….
Classic Climbing Routes at Keyhole Rock
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