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Routes in East Face - 2nd Tier

Martian Route S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Water Gully S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Fred Aschert & Bob Robertson, 1970s
Page Views: 2,011 total, 14/month
Shared By: Ryan Carlino on Apr 9, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Description

This a decent route up small ledges. It has some fun, balancy moves and a bird cave filled with dookie adds to charm.

Location

This lies on the "second tier" of Keyhole. From the South End Topropes of Kindergarten (Cathedral), hike west, uphill on a dirt trail to a saddle. The second tier is on your right. You can access the top of the climb by hiking around back, into a small canyon between 2 fins. A little hiking gets you to a place where you can walk on top of the fin of interest. Pass a large boulder and walk the top of the fin to the anchors.

Protection

The books talk about 4 pins - I only saw 3. It'd be a hairy lead, as the first pin is way up there. It can be toproped off a 2-pin plus a bolt anchor with appropriate slings and biners.

Photos

Fred Aschert & I got the first ascent in the late '70s. Aug 1, 2016
Nick Leuck
Evergreen, CO
5.9+ PG13
Nick Leuck   Evergreen, CO
5.9+ PG13
I'm going to pretend that some flakes broke off at the bottom as an excuse for my poor performance. I could not make it up to the first pin on the slab. It looks like there are more holds after the the first pin (20-30? ft up), but the nerves got the better of me, and I couldn't commit to some moves. I'm not a super strong climber, but usually a 5.8-rated climb isn't this difficult for me. Looks like it'd be nice on TR, however. Feb 29, 2016
Stephen Carlos Rydalch   Golden, CO
I also only found 3 pro bolts on the route, with the first one about 30 feet up. They are old ring pins.

The route has great TR access with 2 pitons at the top, plus a crack to back up from with a cam.

A very fun, sustained route. Oct 13, 2009