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Routes in East Face - 2nd Tier

Martian Route S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Water Gully S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
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Access Issue: New 2018 Closure! Details
Access Issue: 2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Description

New as of 2018: this formation is closed to climbing due to rock quality issues and wildlife concerns. The impact on brown bats, great horned owls, red tail hawks, and Cooper's hawks have resulted in this formation, part of the West face of Kindergarten Rock (aka Grey Rock), and the area between to be closed for all human uses including hiking and climbing. This information was from Bret Tennis, Garden of the Gods Park Operations Administrator.

This is a subarea entry to help facilitate the L->R ordering of routes, since this massif belies ordinary organization.

The routes here are on the East Face of Keyhole Rock, which is listed as "Sleeping Giant" on the park map.

The routes here go from South Ridge, 6, to Dihedral, 9.

Even though the Second Tier is appears to be in the same strata as the North End Pinnacle, we will leave these separate in this organization.

Getting There

There are parking spots to the Northwest and South of the formation on Juniper Way Loop that circles around to the West of the climbing formations. Parking at either and a short hike on trail and then off trail briefly will lead you to below this face.

However, the park is small, so you could easily walk from the North main parking area between North and South Gateway Rocks and head south past Montezuma's Tower and then Keyhole Rock.

There is a ledge system from the north end that traverses under the Second Tier. You can also climb one of the First Tier routes to get here. Finally, you can ascend a 3rd class ramp between Buttress Climb, 7, and Shock It To The Top, 12, to access the tier.

White Chalk is not allowed!

The Park staff want to remind the climbing community that white chalk (calcium carbonate) is prohibited in the park due to visual impact. While any chalk use is discourage, chalk substitute that does not discolor the rock may be used. Eco balls are sold at the Visitor Center.

When placing closure signange/notifications, our park rangers noted chalk stains on several routes in the closure area (Anaconda and Grapefruit Dance), as well as the Blowouts bouldering area (which were cleaned last year, meaning all the chalk here is new). We are again hoping that the community can come together and address this issue before it requires any action on our part. Access may come into play! We'd also like to thank the PPCA for their efforts to remove chalk stains in these areas last year and hope that local climbers might consider helping them remove chalk stains from the rock this season- check their website for more info on upcoming events- pikespeakclimbersalliance.o….

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Classic Climbing Routes at East Face - 2nd Tier

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
Martian Route
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Martian Route
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
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