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Routes in East Face - 2nd Tier

Martian Route S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Water Gully S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Elevation: 6,461 ft
GPS: 38.873, -104.881 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 1,721 total · 22/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Nov 2, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Description

This is a subarea entry to help facilitate the L->R ordering of routes, since this massif belies ordinary organization.

The routes here are on the East Face of Keyhole Rock, which is listed as "Sleeping Giant" on the park map.

The routes here go from South Ridge, 6, to Dihedral, 9.

Even though the Second Tier is appears to be in the same strata as the North End Pinnacle, we will leave these separate in this organization.
New Closure! Details
2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Getting There

There are parking spots to the Northwest and South of the formation on Juniper Way Loop that circles around to the West of the climbing formations. Parking at either and a short hike on trail and then off trail briefly will lead you to below this face.

However, the park is small, so you could easily walk from the North main parking area between North and South Gateway Rocks and head south past Montezuma's Tower and then Keyhole Rock.

There is a ledge system from the north end that traverses under the Second Tier. You can also climb one of the First Tier routes to get here. Finally, you can ascend a 3rd class ramp between Buttress Climb, 7, and Shock It To The Top, 12, to access the tier.

White Chalk is not allowed!

The Park staff want to remind the climbing community that white chalk (calcium carbonate) is prohibited in the park due to visual impact. While any chalk use is discourage, chalk substitute that does not discolor the rock may be used. Eco balls are sold at the Visitor Center.

When placing closure signange/notifications, our park rangers noted chalk stains on several routes in the closure area (Anaconda and Grapefruit Dance), as well as the Blowouts bouldering area (which were cleaned last year, meaning all the chalk here is new). We are again hoping that the community can come together and address this issue before it requires any action on our part. Access may come into play! We'd also like to thank the PPCA for their efforts to remove chalk stains in these areas last year and hope that local climbers might consider helping them remove chalk stains from the rock this season- check their website for more info on upcoming events- http://www.pikespeakclimbersalliance.org/#!stewardship-opportunities/ifre4.

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Classic Climbing Routes at East Face - 2nd Tier

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Martian Route
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Martian Route
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
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