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Routes in North End Pinnacle

Borderline Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Keyhole Route T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Punk Face T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ziggy Stardust S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,060 total · 11/month
Shared By: Bosier Parsons on Sep 22, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: New 2018 Closure! Details
Access Issue: 2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Description

The Keyhole Route climbs up the West Face of Keyhole Rock, up to and under the arch that gives the formation its name. The guidebook calls this 3rd or 4th class. I thought it seemed a bit harder, like maybe even 5.6 or so. It's a cool climb to do, but there's no protection. So, either free-solo it as I did, or if you're bringing a partner, expect to free-solo on lead and just drag the rope up with you. Approach from the north end of Keyhole Rock and traverse a ledge system along the West Face. Start down and to the left of the arch.

Descend by downclimbing a gully to the north, which passes below Ziggy Stardust. You might also be able to descend by going up and over to the east side, but I'm not sure because when I climbed this, it was Fall and there was a little snow up there.

Protection

None.

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