High Energy Crag Rock Climbing
Elevation: | 7,600 ft | 2,316 m |
GPS: |
39.99405, -105.41627 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 6,996 total · 26/month | |
Shared By: | Richard M. Wright on Jul 22, 2002 · Updates | |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
Eds. Note, according to State Biologist who has confirmed this with a site visit, this crag is very close to a closed are but is OPEN TO CLIMBING!
In the late '70s and early '80s, High Energy Crag saw a lot of action for its clean cracks on bullet-proof Boulder Granite. While the crag is small and never gets great sun, it can offer several moderate trad lines with a minimal approach and real respite from the sweltering heat. Most of the routes take off from above the slab and in the right facing dihedral. "Proton" at 5.9 and "Diet of Worms" at 5.10a are certainly fine lines that take excellent pro and offer up some of the sweetest jams in Boulder Canyon. HEC also hosts a couple of 5.11s that are well worth jumping on, and everything here can be done with a small rack of cams or a fist full of stoppers - just bring the whole range. The dihedral can be approached in many ways, so pick the most comfortable one. A couple of big Friends can be placed at the base for a belay and belays at the top are plentiful too - or head for the tree. HEC used to be a Boulder Canyon gem, and it still is.
L->R:
A. Eugenics Wars?, 12 , 1p, 40', gear.
B. No Preservatives? 10, 1p, 40', gear.
C. Star Span, 11, 1p, 40', gear.
D. Golden Bull?, 10, 1p, 40', gear.
E. Proton?, 9 - hmmm, 1p, 40', gear.
F. Neutron Star, 10- R, 1p, 40', gear.
G. Diet Of Worms, 10a-, 1p, 40', gear.
H. Imp-Passible Crack, 11-, 1p, 40', gear.
I. Next to Imp-Passible, 9-, 1p, 40', gear.
Eds. please note the management plan found at bouldercounty.org/openspace… indicates no new bolting is allowed in this area.
Classic Climbing Routes at High Energy Crag
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