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Routes in High Energy Crag

Diet of Worms T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Imp-Passible Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Neutron Star T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

Description

Eds. Note, according to State Biologist who has confirmed this with a site visit, this crag is very close to a closed are but is OPEN TO CLIMBING!

In the late '70s and early '80s, High Energy Crag saw a lot of action for its clean cracks on bullet-proof Boulder Granite. While the crag is small and never gets great sun, it can offer several moderate trad lines with a minimal approach and real respite from the sweltering heat. Most of the routes take off from above the slab and in the right facing dihedral. "Proton" at 5.9 and "Diet of Worms" at 5.10a are certainly fine lines that take excellent pro and offer up some of the sweetest jams in Boulder Canyon. HEC also hosts a couple of 5.11s that are well worth jumping on, and everything here can be done with a small rack of cams or a fist full of stoppers - just bring the whole range. The dihedral can be approached in many ways, so pick the most comfortable one. A couple of big Friends can be placed at the base for a belay and belays at the top are plentiful too - or head for the tree. HEC used to be a Boulder Canyon gem, and it still is.

L->R:

A. Eugenics Wars?, 12 , 1p, 40', gear.
B. No Preservatives? 10, 1p, 40', gear.
C. Star Span?, 11, 1p, 40', gear.
D. Golden Bull?, 10, 1p, 40', gear.
E. Proton?, 9 - hmmm, 1p, 40', gear.
F. Neutron Star, 10- R, 1p, 40', gear.
G. Diet Of Worms, 10a-, 1p, 40', gear.
H. Imp-Passible Crack, 11-, 1p, 40', gear.
I. Next to Imp-Passible?, 9, 1p, 40', gear.

Eds. please note the management plan found at http://www.bouldercounty.org/openspace/management_plans/mgmtplans_pdfs/platt_mgmtpl.pdf indicates no new bolting is allowed in this area.
Open to climbing Details
Seasonal Closure Details

Getting There

Drive 9.1 miles up the canyon. Park as for Easter Rock but cross the stream at the obvious crag with a large right facing dihedral.

3 Total Climbs

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Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
The crag is no longer closed. As of today:
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Tony,
High Energy Crag and Higher Energy Crag are not located within a closed area. We have recently confirmed this definitively with a site visit, as the border of the closure is fairly close. But to reiterate, High Energy Crag and Higher Energy Crag are open for climbing.

This information is open to all the public.

Thanks for your patience,

Susan Spaulding
Senior Wildlife Biologist
Boulder County Parks and Open Space Sep 29, 2011
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
Mark, Leo Paik asked Boulder County about the justification for the closure. My recollection was that it had something to do wildlife but that specifics were not forthcoming. Regarding OSMP and Boulder Falls, and this is from rangers I know, the city is very nervous about legal liability in the area. It is lawyers, not bureaucratic muscle-flexing, who are responsible.

Of the two closures, the Boulder Falls one is the most irksome but technically the approach to Lower Dream is trespassing anyway, so the closure actually doesn't represent a real change from a legal standpoint. The best solution would be to establish a climbers' right of way to Dream via Boulder Falls but the problem would probably be private landowners, not OSMP. Jul 21, 2010
This is another local example of overzealous land management in the Boulder Region. The other nearby example is the closure of Boulder Falls for the past year and a half by Boulder Mountain Parks & Open Space. The closure of High Energy Crag makes no sense since it sees very few visitors. I call it bureaucratic muscle flexing. Aren't you guys tough! Jul 20, 2010
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
Has anyone heard/found a justification for this closure? Apr 5, 2010
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
I regret to have to pass on this information from Boulder County Parks and Open Space via Boulder County Sheriffs, this crag is closed indefinitely to the public for any purpose. Fines start at $50. Sorry.

Addendum: Tony, THANK YOU for updating this information below. The crag is open. Yeah! Apr 4, 2010

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