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Routes in High Energy Crag

Diet of Worms T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Imp-Passible Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Neutron Star T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, TR, 30 ft
FA: J. Erickson, A. Higbee, D. Breashears, 1975
Page Views: 141 total, 1/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on May 17, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is the prominent line that catches your eye up the large dihedral of the crag. Short, yep, but fun. Pump, commitment, gear placements all packed into 25 feet of climbing.

This little crag lies about 9 miles from Elephant Buttresses up the canyon. It is best visualized from the uphill side. Scramble up. Obscure, yes. Long, no. Fun, Yes.

Easier than Proton and Neutron Star but full value. Fire up this corner with good holds. Its brief steepness at the crux requires more muscle than technique. Good pro minimizes the flying. It's over quickly but likely you've broken a sweat, eh? 11a, doubt it (ya gotta look at the first ascentionists); however in some locales when the ratings run a bit soft, it might be rated such. Gives you respect for those who tread here before thee.

Protection

To a #4 Friend. There is room for a yellow Alien, 2 x #2 Friend, #3 Friend, red Alien, #1 1/2 Friend. #3 1/2 Friend, orange Alien and tree for anchor.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Harder than 5.10a. 10b or 10c to onsight it. Apparently both my partner and I missed a key hold and "burly-d" through the crux, finding it later. No less, the climb is difficult. Fun too, but too short to be a destination climb.

Under the roof there are 2 flakes the inner flake seems socketed in pretty well, but the outer one, and one which is tempting to put gear in behind is dicey at best. Beware! Jul 18, 2005
I took a shot at Diet when I was I pretty good 5.9 trad leader, and was stumped, pumped, and felt like I had just been...jumped. Mentioned my difficulties to some fella, what was his name, oh yes Dan Hare, whomI guess some of you might have heard of, he said not to worry about my difficulties, that when he did Diet he thought it might be 5.11a, maybe harder? Must mention Star Span, 5.11c, as the main attraction here, though I have not yet tried it, maybe next week! May 16, 2003