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Routes in High Energy Crag

Diet of Worms T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Imp-Passible Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Neutron Star T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
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Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Henry Barber and Pat Ament
Page Views: 248 total · 1/month
Shared By: Rich Farnham on Aug 6, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details
Access Issue: Open to climbing Details

Description

This stellar roof crack is about 15 feet right of the main dihedral (Diet of Worms, 5.10a) on the crag. Climb the hand and fist crack over a bulge 8' off the ground to gain the no-hands rest directly below the roof crack. The roof takes good pro and the fall is clean (trust me...I tried it out). Fun stemming moves and strenuous jams will get you near the lip of the roof, but you have to get horizontal in the crack before you can clear the bulge. Pop over the roof and you're done.I was able to set a TR to the right of the crack and lower off to belay from the ground. There is some rope drag as the rope tries to wedge at the lip of the roof, but it isn't bad, and lowering off lets you enjoy watching your partner as they grunt out the roof. Surprisingly, this route doesn't get a star in Rossiter's book. I would've given it 3 stars on this site, except for its length. The gymnastic moves and good jams will produce a bigger pump than you might expect from a 30' route. If only it had a 100' hand crack leading up to the roof it might get the 3 stars.

Protection

This route is short enough to be done with a single rack of cams. The most obvious anchor would require a second #3 Camalot (having used one on the pitch) but if you look up and right you can get an anchor with the .5 and .75 that you didn't use on the route.

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Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Probably a little stiff for 11b, but might have seemed easier if I had taped up. I am writing this with holes in my hands from jamming the crystals in the crack over the roof. Fun regardless. Would be 3 stars if it was a 100' pitch, but it isn't. A single set of cams from 0.5" to 3.5" are the pro, and I used a few med/large nuts for a bomber directional before starting the roof. The second may encounter some issues if they plan to hangdog- I would imagine that they might end up pretty low after a fall, particularly with any slings on the pro below the roof.

As well, like the roof on Vertigo in Eldo, the rope gets sucked into the crack and maybe into the gear. Be mindful and consider taking a hex for a "bearing" placing it sideways out at the edge of the roof to keep the rope out. Set a 2.5" cam above for a directional, then belay up and at climber's right on a big sling around a boulder and a large solid tree. Jul 18, 2005

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