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Routes in High Energy Crag

Diet of Worms T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Imp-Passible Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Neutron Star T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, TR, 30 ft
FA: J. Erickson, A. Higbee, D. Breashears, 1975
Page Views: 262 total, 1/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on May 17, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is the next shallow corner line to the left of the prominent dihedral of Diet of Worms.

This little crag lies about 9 miles from Elephant Buttresses up the canyon. It is best visualized from the uphill side. Scramble up.

It is easier than Proton, but full value. If you tried Diet of Worms and were flying or scared, prudence might suggest you TR this line. It has less pro.

Its crux is near its top. Go to the 2nd right sidepull, slap for a left sidepull. Your right foot is key here. Utilize a high left foot. Slap for the top. Ain't 11a either (ya gotta look at the first ascentionists), but it gives you respect for those who tread here before thee. Name is a bit more appealing than its neighbor to the right.

Protection

#3 1/2 Friend, orange alien and tree for anchor. If you TR, a black alien and #3 _ Friend are useful for a directional.

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